Iris van Herpen can do no wrong. The Dutch couturier stayed unmatched with her ethereal creations this Fall 2025 season, taking it to another level by using algae technology on her dresses.
Named “Sympoiesis”, van Herpen’s new collection featured elaborately avant-garde, futuristic conceptions that resembled creatures of the ocean. Van Herpen’s work is not only ever-inspired by the ocean aesthetically, but also because the planet’s largest ecosystem is a huge (albeit mysterious) resource. This resulted in extraordinary, futuristic designs that brought innovation to beautiful craftsmanship.
Van Herpen is not a beginner when it comes to using technology. She was one of the first designers to use 3D printing, she’s made dresses from banana leaves, and she generally loves to experiment with different and interesting materials that go beyond our imagination. Her collection began with a dress made up of 125 million bioluminescent algae, glowing like blue neon lights on the dark runway. Two wedding dresses were built from a man-made bio-based protein.
In a presentation that used laser beams and light tunnels to spotlight the floating creations, futurism met ethereal beauty as organza-like fabrics bounced in extraordinary silhouettes with pleated wings and gills or cloud-shaped formations. Wired platform shoes, reminiscent of Zaha Hadid’s designs, were made in collaboration with Rombaut.
Iris van Herpen knows how to redefine the boundaries of couture, and her return to Paris Couture Week reminded us there’s still so much beauty and innovation to be explored within the industry. The future is lit (by underwater microorganisms).
Featured images via Getty Images©
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