For SS26, new creative director Julian Klausner leaned into femininity – he has mentioned that he favours womenswear to menswear tbf. The show started out with a ‘60s-esque overcoats, boat neck tops and cinched waists and cigarette pants in houndstooth check, and satin embroideries. While duffle bags in different colours and vibrant low-profile sneakers added depth to the looks.
Dries’ recurring house codes of bold florals, stripes, draped silks and embellishments were vividly present. The vibe was relaxed, juxtaposing more casual pieces with the more extravagant. The biker shorts were styled with T-shirts but also embellished bombers and floral jackets. Sarongs were layered over suit pants, styled with shirts and ties, blazers and knits. The looks lowkey nodded to David Beckham’s sarong-gate from the late ‘90s. Beckham was so ahead of his time.
The main character of the show, however, was the louche pyjama-like shorts, shirt and robe set that mixed stripes with paisley, giving us the most luxurious and avant-garde loungewear vibe.
Opulent, luxurious fabrics were undone: ties were loosened, sleeves rolled up, knits were tied on the waists, sarongs were paired with suits. Flamboyance met nonchalance. It’s obvious why Julian Klausner (who just showed his first men’s show since being appointed as CD) was picked out by Dries himself to carry on his legacy. Klausner is proving that he’s good at staying true to the essence of Dries Van Noten.
Featured images Dries Van Noten©
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