COMME des GARÇONS had a meltdown for FW24

COMME des GARÇONS had a meltdown for FW24

by Robyn Pullen
3 min

Rei Kawakubo’s COMME des GARÇONS showed in Paris today with a Fall/Winter 2024 collection that was a raw and artistic display of human emotion. Models stomped and pouted on the runway, using exaggerated body language and facial expression in a way usually uncharacteristic of a conventional fashion show. According to journalist Suzy Menkes, one word from Creative Director Rei Kawakubo summarised the collection: anger. 

As we’ve come to expect from Rei Kawakubo’s collections, garments on COMME des GARÇONS’ FW24 runway were transformed into their typical sculptural artworks. However, whilst at SS24 bright colour was splattered across the collection, this season saw a darker colour palette utilised, and moody, Rococo-style gowns which reflected the attitudes of the models wearing them. 

What we saw presented at the show were a spectrum of looks that utilised Rococo-style silhouettes and motifs, featuring bows, roses, and ruffles on tiered, sculptural garments. Even wigs adorned model’s heads, in curled, towering coils. Whilst the silhouettes and symbols of the late-Baroque era were prevalent in every look, it was the materials utilised in the collection that subverted what we expect from the era’s aesthetic, as Kawakubo used black leather instead of typical cotton.

COMME des GARÇONS’ first look on the runway this season was a layered, leather skirt with an excess of material creating dips and bulks in its silhouette. Paired with a similarly bulky, leather top and laced flat-soled shoes which appeared almost to have melted into the ground, this look set the bar for the rest of the collection. 

What wasn’t immediately recognizable was the model’s attitudes; however, as the show progressed, models began expressing their feelings of anger, frustration, and upset in more obvious ways. One model, who was wearing a red wig and patterned leather trouser set with zip-details, stomped her feet as she met the middle of the runway. 

Whilst COMME des GARÇONS’ FW24 models seemed distressed and distracted on the runway, its audience was anything but. As is the case with every collection Rei Kawakubo creates, we were captivated by the sheer size and silhouettes of each look, enthralled by the attention to detail and the true beauty of each design. If this is what COMME des GARÇONS’ meltdown looks like, we hope they are more to come.

Featured image via @katieismonster ©

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