Image Credit: Y/PROJECT
Y/PROJECT presented its first co-ed show for Paris Men’s Fashion Week since creative director Glenn Martens announced earlier this year he wanted to “break away from the intense pace of four fashion weeks a year.”
Presented as a fashion film, we saw models following blue-taped lines in an ominous dark room where time did not seem to exist. Accompanied by opera music, the FW21 show offered deconstructed and transfigured garments. These included uneven ruffled hemlines and abnormally cut necklines through the use of a metallic wire integrated into the fabric, a concept Martens had previously experimented with in his FW17 collection.
The show, styled by Robbie Spencer, saw unique silhouettes through its use of draped dresses and jumpers, as well as double-layered pieces which hinted at a baroque style. The several shoulder-cuts and excess fabric gave a freeing touch to the collection, allowing the clothes the liberty of morphing to each’s body. The imposing triple-collar neck openings were seen on several tops, granting the wearer flexibility in its styling. Other stand-out pieces included a brown knee-length leather jacket with dishevelled front lining and a quilted black coat with blue stitching and triangular sleeves.
The malleable aspect of the garments were further translated into the accessories, giving us exuberant clutch, shoulder and tote bags. Though, the statement scarves made a significant impact on the runway. Showed in a black-and-white as well as an orange-and-green colourway, the oversized scarves tied themselves as one end passed through a discreet aperture. The visually-challenging aspects of these accessories only reflected Martens’ desire to disarrange the idea of traditional designs.
Y/PROJECT included two collaborations in this collection. The first one, being with Melissa, brought a reinvented Victorian-era shoe. The shoe had a vase-like porcelain shape whilst maintaining a level comfort. Martens stated it “reflects a girl’s dream to wear a crystal shoe,” whilst rethinking historical periods and modernizing them. The other collaboration was with Canada Goose, a second-time collaborator. The outerwear brand brought waterproof overcoats and capes which still had elements of the Y/PROJECT stylized over-draping. Reminiscent of the Belle Epoque, Y/PROJECT is yet referencing another historical era, blending past and present for a timeless collection.
The overall disruptive feel of the collection rings true to Martens’ aesthetic. The bold garments dispute fashion norms and accentuate the individual’s identity expression. Throughout this show, Martens questions garment-making with his perplexing designs, leaving us all impatient for more.
Watch the full show below.