Louis Vuitton approached Paris Fashion Week with a few key goals in mind: emphasize, glorify and magnify. With a combination of an excessively large flower catwalk, blown-up details and larger–than-large jewellery and details, LV achieved what it had intended to do. Keep reading to dissect some of the key takeaways from Nicolas Ghesquière’s Spring Summer 2023 collection for Louis Vuitton.
IT WAS SORT OF ALL OVER THE PLACE – BUT ALSO QUITE COHESIVE
Fashion shows have some sort of cohesion from start to finish. Not necessarily an explicit theme, but at the very least, a vibe. Vivienne Westwood gave us a theatrical show emphasizing bringing in the new while appreciating the old. Off-White practically turned us all into characters in Avatar and gave us a resting heart rate of 186 BPM. But at Louis, the brand doubled down on excess: we got a bit of whimsical, a splash of childhood joy, a dash of classic LV poise and a whole lot of dapper attire.
Things were linked with the ongoing theme of maximalism and movement, though. The final lineup saw Ghesquière’s creations bounce down the runway in a way that cemented their close association with each other. That, and the thread of oversized zippers, pockets and other detailing that said LV is here, and here to stay.
NO DETAIL WENT UNNOTICED – LV MADE SURE OF THAT
Crowds poured into the garden of Paris’ Louvre to catch the Louis Vuitton show. Nowadays, fashion shows are missed by people physically attending the event for many reasons. Sometimes the person in front of you feels the need to document the entire show on their iPhone, while other times, you might find yourself behind a photo journalist’s camera.
To combat this, Ghesquière blew up every single detail which might have been missed behind a cell phone. Was it comically large? Maybe. But the effects still shined through in a positive light. Dresses featured jumbo zippers, which extended beyond the halfway point of the model’s chest when zipped up. Other pieces had belt loops the size of car rims, belts that could contain a few world’s strongest man competitors and shoes which might have been a smidge too big for the wardrobe, but felt perfectly at home in one of Paris’ most major tourist attractions.
NOT YOUR GRANDMA’S JEWELLERY
As a whole, models strutting down the runway were somewhat limited regarding accessories. We saw a handful of models rocking necklaces or bracelets, and when we did, it instantly took me back to two places. On one hand, it gave me elderly vibes, like something your nan would pass down to you once you turned 18. On the other hand, the pieces gave me the vibe that these models had pondered over to their local antique shop and asked for the most expensive estate piece available.
Louis Vuitton womenswear has largely existed in the shadows of its menswear counterpart for the last couple of years – but this collection (and the circumstances surrounding LV mens) may just see a turning point.
BIG BAGS ARE IN AND ARE HERE TO STAY
Throughout Fashion Week, we’ve seen brands pull out all of the stops when it comes to oversized bags. However, Louis Vuitton trumped all when it came to a few of their looks. One that stood out was a monochromatic logo scattered clutch with the indent to be held like a clutch but enough room inside to fit a family-sized T.V.
THE SCENERY WAS ICONIC
If we don’t look back at this show for the pieces involved, we will certainly do so because of the scenery. Placed in the heart of the Louvre’s garden was an ornamental and utility-designed flower which also co-existed as a large red circus tent. Models walked under designated tunnels with exposed steel and wires, looking loosely like the arch above Wembley, but with Paris’ distinct European twist.
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