Whatever wave – or motocross track – Slimane is riding, we want to join. Presenting CELINE’s SS22 collection near his home of St Tropez in the southern French Island of Grand Gaou, Slimane has created the uniform for the new-age grunge teenage boys.
While the designer’s approach to womenswear has always been clean, crisp and timeless – think tailored two piece suits and long dramatic floor-length coats – his take on menswear takes a sharp turn towards the rebellious and careless, free of any imposed restrictions or rules. Flooding with adrenaline, the latest collection titled ‘Cosmic Cruiser’ felt like an enticingly dark post-rave fever dream you never want to wake up from.
Big on theatrics – remember last season’s show which saw models riding horses into a French medieval castle? – the show opened with motocross riders from the FMX4EVER team, riding dirt roads until finally unveiling the CELINE-branded motocross bike ramp-turned-runway. High on energy, the revving bikes signaled us we’re in for a ride.
As the momentum builds through our glued-to-the-screen eyes, the first model walks out wearing an all-black outfit made up of leather trousers, a sequin top with two-strap cut-out-sides and a choker neckline, accompanied by black boots and a pair of yellow almost-cyclist sunglasses. Setting a ‘too cool for anything’ feel, the first look carries the flow of energy started by the bikes and transcends through the coming looks. Ripped and oversized jeans, studded leather vests and the effortless loose-fitted shirts, Slimane perfectly captures the essence of a rebellious teen boy: not giving a damn.
Accompanied by the sounds of Izzy Camina’s ‘Up ‘N’ Down’, which aligned with the bike rider’s fearless stunts and jumps, the pulsating energy of each drumbeat reflected in the clothes, “riding a new age” as the “restless dream of a cosmic teen” flashes right in front of us. Cowboy boots, a sequin-embroidered denim jacket that reads ‘Heavenly Days’, leather studded body harnesses, oversized tunics that ripple almost too well to the warm South of France breeze, there’s no other way to describe this collection than by saying Slimane just gets it.
Keeping it effortless, ‘Cosmic Cruiser’ felt like cyberpunk and new-age grunge collision, which formed an interstellar show. Down to the dysfunctional (but in the best way possible) styling, our youth’s ethos was captured and projected into the cosmos of fashion.
Make sure to check out the full show below.