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by Jenny
@DANIELROSEBERRY ©

The internet – known for its ability to alter the course of a fashion house’s life indefinitely – is rife once more with proverbial pitchforks. This time, the social media stampede has Haute Couture Week set in its sights.

As the ex spearhead of Thom Browne, Maison Schiaparelli’s enigmatically American Creative Director Daniel Roseberry is no stranger to witnessing the fallout of cancel culture around him. We only need to look towards brands that have experienced stints in fashion exile before.  

However, with the debut of Roseberry’s taxidermy lion heads pinned across both Irina Shayk and Kylie Jenner like badges of honour during their Paris Couture Week show, has the historic house gone too far? We should point out that it has since been swiftly clarified that the heads weren’t real, but actually scarily lifelike sculptures, painstakingly hand-crafted using “foam, wool and silk faux fur”. Okay, fine – that arguably makes it at least 80% less scandalous than using an actual endangered animal corpse. The other 20% may be a little murky, though.

@DANIELROSEBERRY ©

We could spend hours fuelling debate around the fur and faux fur in fashion conversation – it’s been happening for years, after all. Peta protesters have been throwing red paint at fox coats for decades at the steps of fashion shows. But at the crux, the issue lies not with the faux lion head itself, but the message that it portrays. Wearing the head of an animal as a fashion statement (foam-based or not) has raised some serious ethical questions over the past few days. Is it wrong? Does it glorify trophy hunting? 

@DANIELROSEBERRY ©

Even when furs and skins are fake, there may be a line that can’t – or shouldn’t – be crossed with symbolic messaging in fashion. Whilst some – animal rights activists in particular – suggested that the hyper-realistic designs promoted the wrong message, a few argue that demonising faux is a no go if we hope to eradicate real fur on the runway (and in the world) forever. 

No one doubts the unmatched, hand-sculpted ability that Schiaparelli’s ‘Dante’s Inferno’ inspired collection exhibited. Even the show’s intention was perhaps harmless, with Roseberry describing the pieces – a wolf, worn by Naomi Campbell; a snow leopard, modelled by Shalom Harlow, and the now infamous lion pinned to Irina Shayk –  as a celebration of “the glory of the natural world” Despite this, the heads still unnerved social media users, with sustainable fashion TikTok commentator @nihaelety suggesting that there could have been “a better way” to showcase animals, “without perpetuating dangerous poaching activities.” 

@DANIELROSEBERRY ©

Whilst animal rights charity Peta have surprisingly come forward to give the collection the green light, many still swiftly clicked the unfollow button after the event. For now though, it seems that Haute Couture – and Schiaparelli – will survive another day in the age old “has fashion gone too far?” debate.

More on CULTED

See also: WHAT THE CULTED COMMUNITY THINKS OF COUTURE

See also: SASQUATCH CORE & FROG CLOGS: 10 FASHION MONTH SHOE SPOTS

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A$AP NAST ©

Hardcore fans of rap are always trying to find their person. Kid Cudi’s lyrics became the framework for the lost kids who enjoyed escaping reality. Dave, in his long-form instances, portrays a lifestyle that we can all connect with. Whether that’s a break-up, treating someone incorrectly, or being wronged ourselves.

A$AP Nast represents the person whose lost, but is okay with being lost as long as they’re with others. Nast’s music exemplifies this as his tracks predominantly contain more than two features, along with a beat that would be best enjoyed in a group setting. 

A$AP NAST ©

The same can be said about his sense of fashion. At times, we see him in ballooned Yohji pants or pleated trousers from Issey Miyake that dance over beat-up Sambas. However, his uniform is mundane yet clean, comprising of a pair of Air Max, an innately clean set of tube socks, grey sweatpants, and a jumper. 

His effect on the fashion community is arguably more impactful than his musical endeavours. He’s collaborated with Sergio Tacchini, Levi’s, and Reebok, as well as acting as the lead for Burberry X Supreme and Stussy X Dries Van Noten. Each of the pieces from these collaborations is inherently Nast, with each piece positioning itself flawlessly into his wardrobe. 

Continue below to dissect A$AP Nast’s discography. 

A$AP NAST ©

Ghost Ride

Paired with two legends of the music and fashion game, Nast goes crazy on a classic A$AP Mob-styled beat with Skepta and his cousin, A$AP Rocky. The beat itself brings feelings of late-night hangouts with your mates, the type of night that lives with immortality among those present. With Rocky letting his lyrics fly, and Skepta slowing down the pace with his own style, Nast breaks in with his own innuendos and melodies.

Ladies Hit Squad

Something about Nast’s choice of lyrics and the dichotomy it produces along with Skepta makes for an intriguing listen. Skepta’s deep, monotone voice seems to always be on beat, adding more bass than initially perceived. Then there’s Nast, whose sing-songy style of rap turns the otherwise deep beat into something with a bit more pop flair. 

A$AP NAST ©

Blowing Minds

An A$AP Mob classic, this track comes off of Cozy Tapes Volume two, a collaborative project with every musical member of the Mob. This track in particular includes five members of the group, along with Chicago Drill pioneer Chief Keef and mumble rap slash fashion icon, Playboi Carti. Blowing Minds is another feel-good tracks that include Nast.

Dogtalk

Dogtalk is a track where we hear much more from Nast solely, as he collaborates with D33J. With a similar vibe to Ghost Ride, this Nast track plays more to the feel-good side of listeners, giving us less of a hardcore rap feel. The beat itself is very mellow, one that is more representative of Nast’s personality. 

A$AP NAST ©

Designer Boi

In another collab with D33J, Designer Boi features another bubblegum rap beat paired with Nast’s sing-songy style of rap. There are a ton of references to Nast’s taste in fashion, including multiple bars which the pair ring off designer labels and specific products. 

More on CULTED

See also: DISCOGRAPHY AUTOPSY: THROUGH THE EYES OF J HUS

See also: DISCOGRAPHY AUTOPSY: RIDING THE FRANK OCEAN WAVE

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BOTTER ©

January was the month that footwear reigned supreme. We saw the likes of amphibian chic slip-ons, minimalistic Birkenstocks and ultra futuristic 3D printed kicks – all in the space of two jam packed fashion weeks across Paris and Milan.

But where do we draw the line for avant-garde Fashion Week footwear? How many cross-collabs can possibly be left in the universe? Will we eventually regress back to caveman-like tendencies and simply send models down the runway in dusty bare feet? Maybe. For now though, let’s take a look back at some of the best footwear features spotted over at the Milan & Paris Menswear Fashion Weeks.

BIRKENSTOCK X FEAR OF GOD

Birkenstock has taken a leaf out of a Brutalist design book with their latest concrete-esque footwear offering. Presenting their ‘Los Feliz’ shoe at a chic presentation during PFW, this minimalistic take on their classic 1774 collection was designed in collaboration with Fear of God and represents “the unique hillside enclaves of Los Angeles” with the shoe’s stoney, earth-toned features.

BIRKENSTOCK ©

FROG CLOGS AT JW ANDERSON

When JW Anderson’s FW23 runway show in Milan kicked off, the event ensued with pillow princesses and bunnies. The best part, though? Three pairs of rubberised, frog faced clogs, featured in pond blue, swamp green and water lily yellow – with a clear nod to beloved British rain boot brand Wellipets.

JW ANDERSON ©

HOT PINK MONOGRAMMING AT GUCCI

Gucci’s highly anticipated return to Menswear Fashion Week in Milan post-Alessandro Michele was an ode to going back to basics, with the return of their iconic Princetown fur-lined loafers featuring during the show. However, the standout footwear spot was a hot pink newcomer in the form of a ruched-fit, monogrammed, cowboy-esque pair of boots (which also came in blue, in case you’re not a fan of the Barbie-core phenomenon).

Jack Chipper / CULTED ©

1017 ALYX 9SM KNOW THEIR BOOTS

“Alyx and boots just go together omg”. These were the words of one IG user under 1017 ALYX 9SM’s page when the label took to Instagram to share BTS images before their Milan Fashion Week show. The boots in question spanned across three pairs: one, a chunky, cleated goth pair; the other two, knee-length cowboy boots sprayed with graffiti by artist Mark Flood. One IG user added “What I gotta do to get my feet in these”, a query that we’re sure many others would also like to know.

1017 ALYX 9SM ©

RAINS X ZELLERFELD

Scandi brand Rains took to the Paris Fashion Week runway with a debut of not one, but two viral moments. Whilst their conjoined raincoat certainly made a statement, we were more interested in the unexpected (but welcome) footwear collab with Zellerfeld for an ugly-core renaissance in the form of a pair of 3D printed platform shoes dubbed ‘The Puffer Boots’.

SASQUATCH-CORE AT DOUBLET 

Doublet championed the yeti this year at PFW, debuting a range of hairy, typically weird (yet mesmerising) footwear options. Whilst we’ve seen a range of furry shoe entries this year from the likes of Mihara Yasuhiro and Dsquared2 (not forgetting last AVAVAV last year) Doublet’s were more of an ironic take on the usually Y2K streamlined footwear.

@LARSLALA ©

BOTTER X REEBOK

Stay tuned – we may just be witnessing the future of 3D printed footwear. Botter teamed up with sportswear giants Reebok to offer us a glimpse of what sneakerheads may be wearing over the next few years. Enter: the Venus Comb Murex Shell Sneaker, in collaboration with HP. Featuring a honeycomb/seashell hybrid sole in a myriad of kaleidoscopic colours, this was an innovative collab that stood out in Paris.

BOTTER ©

3D GALORE @ DIOR

Kim Jones entered Dior into the world of 3D design processes with the house’s PFW footwear entry, via an ultra lightweight, perforated boot in blacked out meshed material and featuring a Dior monogrammed sole. Designed completely using 3D printing technology, this innovative extension of Dior Savoir Faire was a standout look on the Parisian Runway.

DIOR ©

SACAI X NIKE MAGMASCAPE

Sacai and Nike joined the roster of brands dishing out killer footwear collabs this season, this time with the debut of an updated pair of Nike Air Footscape Wovens, dubbed the ‘Magmascapes’. The original sneaker’s contemporary silhouette was still there, but utilitarian additions and brand new bold colour ways added a welcome Sacai twist to the cult shoe.

SACAI ©

KODAK’S BUNNY FEET @ NAHMIAS

No, you can’t buy these – but you’ll probably find some version of them online. Kodak Black’s ten-piece capsule with Nahmias titled ‘California Poetry’ featured bunny elements throughout the collection, including many genuinely innovative design elements. At the end though, the stars of the show were undoubtedly these fluffy, bunny head slippers. Kodak really said cosy-core forever.

NAHMIAS ©

More on CULTED

See also: YOUR MEN’S PFW ROUNDUP FT. CHAINMAIL, COMEDY SHOWS & KODAK BLACK

See also: BBL COATS & ANGEL WINGS: 4 PIECES FROM LOEWE FW23

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MAISON MIHARA YASUHIRO ©

What a week. Men’s Paris Fashion Week has come to a close, and as Couture Week kicks off with historic house Schiaparelli (feat. a hairy appearance from Kylie Jenner) we have just about enough time for a recap of some of the week’s best moments.

From footwear collabs on the runway, to weird, wonderful and chaotic collections – here’s your need-to-know PFW round up from the CULTED front-line.

MARGIELA’S ODE TO VIV

Maison Margiela’s Co-Ed 2023 show was a punk affair, with nods to Vivienne Westwood’s iconic tartan layering popping up all over the runway. A small presentation with only around 100 attendees, the collection featured bows, ruffles, a splash of Leon Dame runway magic and the return of Maison’s infamous (and now Fashion TikTok beloved) tabi toe, this time as a range of glamorous platform heels bedecked with hundreds of rhinestones. 

Is this a sign that the house is moving away from street wear undertones to return to the days of ‘dressing up’?

MAISON MARGIELA ©

LOUIS GABRIEL NOUCHI WENT AMERICAN PSYCHO

Patrick Bateman just got a runway edition makeover. Fans of American Psycho went wild as Louis Gabriel Nouchi’s FW23 collection included blood-spattered models in contemporary suits fit for a genderless Wall Street.

Bonus points for spotting Emily in Paris star Lucas Bravo on the runway with an uncanny Bateman smirk to match.

LOUIS GABRIEL NOUCHI ©

RAINS FW23 WAS A SUPERHERO AFFAIR

Rising Scandi label Rains come a long way since their initial waterproof mac offerings. Entering FW23 with a range of floor length puffer coats, cape-resembling outerwear and even their own viral movement – an arm-connected, couples jacket – Rains are making elevated (and strategic) moves within the fashion world.

RAINS ©

MAISON MIHARA YASUHIRO SAID ‘NO FAKES’

2023 is officially the year of authenticity, or so designer Mihara Yasuhiro says. Following a standout show in Paris, we spotted huge furry footwear, and even a nod to the collection’s name “The Imitation Complex” with a The North Face inspired puffer. 

Speaking to CULTED after the show, he said: “I wanted to make something real. I wanted the materials to show realness through the fake. I’m a bit tired these days – of everything just being an imitation.”

MAISON MIHARA YASUHIRO ©

BOTTER DID UP TRANSPORT CHIC

Botter never disappoint, do they? From a futuristic, Reebok-collaborated pair of sneakers, to necklaces in the form of cars, bike seat-shaped bags (and jumpers stuck on… jumpers?) their latest runway show added their typically playful twists to the everyday mundane. In true Caribbean Couture fashion, Botter AW23 was as ingenious and colourful as it was pleasing.

BOTTER ©

DOUBLET’S WONDERFULLY WEIRD FW23

As per, Doublet came in clutch with the weirdness. Their outdoor runway gave us furry-approved wonders such as a gyrating mouse, yeti-style trousers and limp, stuffed legs hanging around a models waist like a belt. Later down the line, the masks came out – in the form of a wolf, an alligator (kind of) and a distorted, stretched t-shirt bear that vaguely resembled a sagging sheet mask.

Trust Doublet to bring a touch of well-needed irony to the usually so sérieux French Fashion Week.

@DIOR.MGMT ©

NAHMIAS ENLISTED KODAK BLACK

In the most surprising collab of the season, Nahmias teamed up with none other than Kodak Black for FW23. As his first foray into the fashion world, the 10 piece collection – titled California Poetry – featured nods to skate culture, hip hop and 90’s Santa Barbara style. Blink twice and you’d miss the bunny slippers (sadly not for sale, sorry) thrown into the mix.

@ARTURKOFF ©

KIDSUPER HAD THE LAST LAUGH

Colm Dillane’s second round at PFW following his Louis Vuitton guest feature (this time for his own brand, KidSuper) was less of a runway and more of a comedy show, with appearances from legendary fashion icon Tyra Banks – tapped to present the affair – and a range of acts including Jeff Ross. who all performed whilst dressed in accompanying KidSuper fits.

KIDSUPER ©

CHAINMAIL & TAILORING @ NAMACHEKO

Namacheko championed the modern warrior this Paris Fashion week, with hints of knight-esque chainmail, and a touch of emo angst. The Belgian label’s gender-defying return to Fashion Week ensued with bare legs, studs and acid wash two pieces for some, contrasted against cream puff coloured school girl tights and pleated dresses for the rest. Similarly, tailored pieces were designed for all and blended with nods to both feminine and masculine outlooks.

NAMACHEKO ©

SCHOOLBOY OUTERWEAR AT KIKO KOSTADINOV

For this season’s ‘menswear’ collection – or should we say, boyswear – Kiko Kostadinov offered runway realness. Think Peter Pan, Robin Hood or any rogue character with boyish charm of your particular choosing – then, add a fresh dose of tech-wear design elements a la Kiko Kostadinov. Revealing backstage that the hope was for the show to portray a ‘group of schoolboys’ who had designed their own collection, a range of hooded garments and tangerine utilitarian outerwear was juxtaposed by sailor-chic outfits and knee length boots suited to a Victorian boy (or girl).

KIKO KOSTADINOV ©

SACAI’S TWIST OF NIKE

Nike Air Footscape Woven fans rejoiced following the news that the cult shoe was making an anticipated return to retailer shelves this year. Japanese frontrunners Sacai said sit down and brace yourselves – we’ve got something else for you for FW23. Following a glimpse of two Carhartt WIP Classic Chore Jacket remixes on the Parisian runway, streetwear fans barely had a chance to process the collab before a pair of vibrant, suede and meshed Nikes stepped down the runway. Carhartt WIP and Nike in one sitting? Sacai knows how to win a crowd over.

@GONGHIVESALON24 ©

More on CULTED

See also: 5 KEY PIECES FROM CASABLANCA’S CASTAWAY CRASH LAND

See also: BBL COATS & ANGEL WINGS: 4 PIECES FROM LOEWE FW23

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SONG FOR THE MUTE ©

It’s that time again. As another Monday comes around, we’ve curated another jam packed roster of news to keep you afloat. This week, we spotted COS collabs, killer presentations and even a touch of seductive energy, thanks to Arturo Obegero. Designers dropped new collections aplenty and Paris brought us a fresh list of fashion week contenders to the mix.

Keep reading for our round up of everything you need to know for the coming week.

COS DROPS YEBOAH COLLAB

Teaming up with Notting Hill based designer Reece Yeboah, minimal utility wear frontrunners COS have dropped a limited capsule collection drawing on the boundaries of heritage whilst taking note of the challenging obstacles of Yeboah’s rise to the top. Featuring standout pieces such as YEBOAH emblazoned hoodie, a structured check overcoat and a playful sports jacket – all adorned with a striking, bright yellow shade – COS x YEBOAH hopes to initiate a wave of support for new talent through their innovative new platform, kicking off with a London show and a glittering after party this Thursday 26th January.

COS ©

FLANEUR PRESENT ‘SOMEWHERE IN EUROPE’

Contemporary menswear label Flaneur have dropped their AW23 collection, featuring luxurious denims and leathers, technical pieces for everyone and fluid cuts – alongside innovative accessories and footwear offerings. Drawing from the elements of youth and dreams, the campaign is accompanied by a short film titled ‘La Flaneur Moderne’, which explores a wandering protagonist’s emotions and as they make their way around the city, absorbing all of the aesthetic elements around them.

FLANEUR ©

SONGZIO KICKED OFF WITH A BLACK CANVAS

Songzio’s F/W entry for 2023 landed in Paris with an aim to ‘reflect’. The Seoul based label’s latest collection was written from the viewpoint of a ‘boy gladiator’, a delicate, gentle individual with a brave warrior heart and spirit. Featuring double layered outerwear in heavy denims and durable vegan leather, asymmetric silhouettes and futuristic colour-clashing via acid greens and distressed browns, Songzio FW23 championed antique exteriors with contemporary design methods.

SONGZIO ©

A (LITERAL) KILLER AW23 FOR SANKUANZ

“A vicious Black Widow –both victim and executioner– clutches a sharp blade for self- defence and cold-blood murder. They are no stranger to violent tendencies.” These are the dark forewords that marked Sankuanz’s killer (no pun intended) garage-based show, including ominous all-black ensembles followed by bright, graffiti-sprayed pieces. Power suits met street style silhouettes in this dark, yet youthful collection.

SANKUANZ ©

INTENTIONAL STRUCTURING AT JOE CHIA

For Joe Chia FW23, ‘layering, tailoring and commitment’ were at the forefront of their ethos. #CHAPTER21, titled ‘Out of Nowhere’ strived to combine technical design elements with a contemporary, edgy twist using adjustable drawstrings, modern silhouettes and odes to functionality. Uses subdued, natural shades such as Sulphur, Moss and Dusk, layered pieces and textured knit pieces were at the crux of this elevated collection.

JOE CHIA ©

EYTYS KEPT PLAYING

Introducing EYTYS FW23: your sign to ‘keep playing, keep dancing.’ As their latest Parisian collection kicked off, we were treated to a glimpse into Creative Director Mac Schiller’s childhood in Dalarö, Sweden. Complimented by etchings by artist Anders Zorn featured alongside the booming beat of King Tubby’s Hometown Hifi, models scaled the runway in slashed denim, illusionary knitwear and never ending silhouettes.

EYTYS ©

ARTURO OBEGERO GAVE SEDUCTIVE ENERGY

Arturo Obegero doesn’t play when it comes to collection energy. The label’s latest collection for FW23, dubbed ‘Homme Fatale’ takes inspiration from the seductive, confident man who oozes confidence, ambition and style. Through morphing iconic styles such as their Christian Cardigan and Pedro Silk Shirt into luxurious, elevated updates and including a ‘Hollywood touch’ throughout, for FW23 Arturo Obegero challenged us all to use our fatale energy to empower ourselves.

ARTURO OBEGERO ©

WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK’S AVANT GARDE FW23

As a leading member of one of the famed ‘Antwerp Six’ Walter Van Beirendonck was never going to play it down at PFW. Championing the unexpected, his foray into FW23 (which was accompanied by a David Bowie soundtrack) peddled a range of political slogans such as “Save the Future,”“Peace,” and “No War,” PVC galore and even a vast, shiny red ensemble them resembled the connective limbs of a lego piece, WvB’s FW23  show was the place where playful casualwear met avant-garde tailoring.

WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK ©

SONG FOR THE MUTE ELEVATES SPORTSWEAR

With a successful debut adidas collab firmly under its belt, Australian label Song for the Mute charged the runway with an apocalyptic vibed collection. Distressed, frayed hems were spotted aplenty meanwhile oversized, layered outerwear finished with matrix-esque shades and balaclava style chunky scarves. Streetwear got a contemporary twist with tailored shirts and coats – and we even spotted a second adidas collab on the runway, in the form of boxy shirts, billowing tracksuit bottoms and even an anticipated second footwear instalment titled SFTM-002 Campus.

SONG FOR THE MUTE ©

NO GREY AREA EXPLORED ANCESTRY

No Grey Area, the label at the forefront of modern South-Asian clothing representation, returned to the runway last week with their latest FW23 runway show. Rooted in heritage, the collection, titled ‘Neithal’, offered nods to cultural significance through Kurta and Dhoti silhouettes, traditional saree structuring and luxurious fabric design elements such as loomed-in-Kashmir pashminas.

NO GREY AREA ©

44 LABEL GROUP SAY “BLAME SOCIETY”

Set against a desolate, wasteland style backdrop, 44 Label Group’s foray into FW23 said ‘Blame Society’. Channelling postmodern disenchantment energy, the formidable collection featured distressed knitted motifs, blown up silhouettes with hints to space-raider uniforms and futuristic design features in the form of eye-catching prints and utilitarian shapes. For FW23, the label blended playful aspects of club culture with the jarring issue of perpetual world consumption.

44 LABEL GROUP ©

IDENTITY, MEMORY, FANTASY: N PALMER’S COLLECTION 3

N Palmer took time to reflect on personal history this season. Channelling transatlantic style for FW23, we spotted classic Americana styles in the form of bandana features and patchwork elements, alongside rural ruffles and charming silhouettes – an ode to his countryside upbringing in Indiana. Standout pieces were up cycled effortlessly from vintage fabrics such as bedlinen, as the designer nodded to a more sustainable, waste-reducing fashion future with his collection.

Head to n-palmer.com/shop to browse the full collection.

N PALMER ©

More on CULTED

See: A DEEP-DIVE INTO DIOR HOMME FW23: AN ODE TO YVES SAINT LAURENT

See: KEY TAKEAWAYS: LOUIS VUITTON THROUGH THE EYES OF KIDSUPER

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@marcforne ©

The Loewe FW23 Menswear show said less is more. In a stark white venue decorated with floor-to-ceiling Julien Nguyen artworks, the show kicked off in Paris this morning before an audience of famous faces, including Naomi Campbell and Timothy Chalamet to name a few. Bestowing us with a collection self-proclaimed to be a reinvention of craft and leather, Jonathan Anderson put his own spin on a popular theme this fashion month: reduction.

Loewe ©

COATS BUT MAKE IT BIGGER

Jackets stole the show at Loewe. A floor-length tailored jacket opened the show, styled unconventionally with nothing under it (which turned out to be a theme of the collection), followed by a selection of loose, open-front coats with another unique element: the model’s hands draped from the deep neckline, with the sleeve hanging empty at their sides. An iridescent orange coat with high-collar appeared to be completely stiff, catching the light as the model walked. More jackets followed in silk, suede, and puffer. We simply couldn’t choose a favourite.

@therichardjohnson ©

BAGS YOU COULD CLIMB INTO

Itsy bitsy shoulder bags are out; Loewe’s ushering in a new staple bag. The collection featured an array of bags in various shapes, colours, and sizes – keeping to Creative Director Jonathan Anderson’s promise to “reinvent craft and leather” – but they all followed one overarching theme: the bigger the better. A slouchy hand-held bag in a muted beige was big enough to climb into, followed by a tailored tote in black that was both sophisticated and practical. If you’ve got a lot of baggage, this was the collection for you. 

@therichardjohnson ©

A SHIRT THAT WAS HEAVEN SENT

Loewe gives you wings in FW23, as seen on a round-neck shirt in cream which buttoned at the back, styled simply with a pair of brown boots and a set of dusty grey angel wings. Pinned lightly at the shoulder blade, the wings appeared to be made of short silvery feathers, scarcely reaching past the model’s frame, and quivering as they walked. If models at Loewe were to ever spontaneously grow wings, this depiction is as realistic as one could expect. I’ll take two. 

@loewe ©

THE FUR COAT TO RULE THEM ALL

Men’s fashion month has been desperate to conquer the statement fur coat this season, with almost every brand taking a swing; but Loewe arguably just dominated them all with one fell swoop. This fur coat has a BBL. In a soft tan, Jonathan Anderson’s iconic fur coat is bulbous in the best way possible, curved at its extremities to look like a teddy-bear’s balled up fists. Maybe the star of the show, the coat’s already been touted as the best fur coat to walk this season, and we might have to agree.

@jdiderich ©

More on CULTED

See: A DEEP-DIVE INTO DIOR HOMME FW23: AN ODE TO YVES SAINT LAURENT

See: KEY TAKEAWAYS: LOUIS VUITTON THROUGH THE EYES OF KIDSUPER

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Jack Chipper / CULTED ©

Casablanca quite literally just performed a Parisian crash landing into Men’s Fashion Week. In the dimly lit show space, we found ourselves surrounded by their evocative, Mediterranean aesthetic tiles in a vivid range of shades. The focal point however, happened to be a huge, weather-beaten fighter plane suspended by flowery overgrowth, dominating the centre-stage.

At first glance, it looked as if the aircraft had crashed onto the runway a few years ago and genuinely hadn’t moved an inch. Despite the constructed devastation, there was a peaceful atmosphere all around the space. A thought occurred that maybe the models would be the castaway characters in this survival show.

In unwavering Casablanca style, country club cool was complemented by sunkissed, nostalgic colours. Kaleidoscopic checked pieces were decked out with sequin embellishments and crafted bamboo accents prevailed throughout the collection. At the core though, Casablanca’s usually carefree, getaway aesthetic had a sombre undertone this year. Before the show kicked off, the brand’s Founder and Creative Director Charaf Tajer took to the stage to make an impassioned statement surrounding war and beauty, reflecting on his time in Damascus and witnessing of what he called “a living paradox”. For Casablanca FW23, change was in the air – and through the pain of a war zone, Tajer strived ‘For the Peace’ through key items in his collection.

A ROSE BETWEEN TWO FIGHTER VESTS

A nod to the raw plight of war was symbolised through padded fighter vests, which though finished in classically spirited Casablanca colour ways, featured a poignant addition. Emblazoned across the front of one vest we saw soft, gentle flower prints sprouting from the seams – an emblem of peace found within the war zone.

Jack Chipper / CULTED ©

The model clutched a bouquet of dusty pink roses of the same ilk (a still-life accessory spotted frequently during the show) as they made their way down the runway. As a symbol of strength, the rose took us back to Tajer’s initial speech, referencing the show’s theme of “a theatre inspired by courage”.

CASABLANCA CHECKMATE

Checked pieces synonymous with Casablanca’s French-Moroccan roots cropped up everywhere within the collection, from a vivid belted mod suit (followed by floor-length coat to match) plus a sequinned bolero style jacket and a glittering hooded mini dress. The standout piece however, was a structured cream cape – finished with prismatic, sequin accents along the fringes. With elemental design hints of a matador’s muleta, was this Casablanca’s ode to an alternative soldier’s uniform? Taking note of the label’s rose-tinted view of the world, this flowing piece stood out amongst the collection.

Jack Chipper / CULTED ©

BADGES OF GLORY

It’s difficult to separate war from the image of a soldier. Casablanca encapsulated this notion for FW23 with a surprisingly logical accessory: the medal. With references to wartime heroism, models cleared the runway in fits finished with badges of glory; gilded military regalia featured heavily within the collection, with blazers donning fringed gold epaulettes and yellow gold insignias spotted throughout. In particular, one look showcased a crisp white military suit adorned with a row of medals – dangling just below, we caught a glimpse of shiny pendants in the shapes of a rose, a heart and the Casablanca logo.

Jack Chipper / CULTED ©

MOON BOOTS FOR THE SLOPES

On a lighter note to the show, après-ski-chic features popped up heavily throughout the collection in the form of all in one, skin-tight ski suits, goggle-like sunglasses with prism lenses and a handful of knitted balaclavas. But the showstopper? That was a pair of slope-ready moon boots, layered underneath the padding of a cream snowsuit. Featuring ribbed calf-length uppers and rubberised grippable soles, the boots were a solid entry into the accessory of the show roundup. With the colossal footwear trend still raging ahead for FW23 (you can thank AVAVAV for that) expect to see these pop up on the slopes – and the city streets.

Jack Chipper / CULTED ©

GET THAT BAG, CASABLANCA

Casablanca’s bag offerings this season were quite frankly, unmatched. Their iconic checked print featuring traditional primary colour gridding embossed such an extended range of pieces this year, it was hard to pick a favourite. On one hand, bamboo-handled handbags added an infusion of playfulness to the collection, whilst on the other a heart shaped bag with a remixed version of Casablanca’s motif embossed across the front represented the ‘love, not war’ ethos Tajer championed aptly. A barrelled design was clutched alongside key looks and a beige canvas weekend suitcase even featured (perhaps a symbol of escapism from the disaster zone).

Jack Chipper / CULTED ©

For FW23 however, it was clear that tote bag supremacy was here to stay. The tote dominated the runway this year for Casablanca, with variations of the structured leather bags – including a crocheted sibling – cropping up frequently throughout the show. The winner? A mustard framed, laptop-sized carrier tote finished with the collection’s signature multi-colour grid and ‘CASA’ emblazoned across the front.

More on CULTED

See also: A DEEP-DIVE INTO DIOR HOMME FW23: AN ODE TO YVES SAINT LAURENT

See also: MATTHEW M. WILLIAMS’ UTOPIAN GIVENCHY RETREAT

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Dior Homme ©

Dior Homme FW23 was a blast from the past. The show opened yesterday in Paris to a crisp anthology of smart tailoring, gentle knits, and draped tulle. Whilst gracefully embracing modern silhouettes and styles, the collection seemed to fall comfortably back into the soft round armchair of an understated upper class. In a throwback to the days of Dior long gone, there’s a subtle reason for the brand’s new aesthetic: the collection was in memory of one of their most understated designers. Join us for a deep-dive into the true inspiration behind the collection.

Dior Homme ©

Inviting only the most exclusive crowd to witness the show, Kim Jones’ audience was filled with familiar faces including Naomi Campbell, David Beckham, Robert Pattinson, Jimin from BTS (the brand’s new global ambassador) and many more. The show opened in an acute darkness, with the audience in tiered rows placed on one side of the runway, in mimicry of a traditional theatre.

Ears pricked to the sounds of voices filling the showspace, which slowly were acknowledged to be from speakers reverberating about the room. They began to narrate iconic lines from the opening of T. S. Eliot’s 1922 poem, “The Waste Land”, a poem from Yves Saint Laurent’s time. Said speakers were later revealed to be Robert Pattinson and Gwendoline Christie.

Dior Homme ©

Kim Jones made a comment on the collection and his inspiration, stating that: “we wanted to look at the regeneration of the house after the death of Mr. Dior, and its rejuvenation with Yves Saint Laurent – his chosen heir – drawing a parallel in literature, through imagery and themes in the wasteland. It’s where an old world meets a new one, in change and in flux.”

Back in 1954, Yves Saint Laurent began studying couture under Christian Dior at age only 18, and quickly learnt he had a skill for luxury fashion design. He developed a skillful mimicry of Dior’s a-line designs and managed to win over critics by showcasing his design’s likeness, particularly after Dior passed when Saint Laurent was 21. He came to be revered at Dior for his stylistic takes on the brand’s iconic silhouette, famously known as the youngest couturier.

Dior Homme ©

The collection was actually inspired by the designer’s Spring Summer 1958 collection from his time at Dior. Having worked alongside Christian Dior himself, Saint Laurent’s designs were renowned for ditching the stuffy bourgeois aesthetic of the time and instead placing a priority on style. Although the house eventually fired him in 1960, with hindsight they obviously want him back.

As the words, “April is the cruellest month…” echoed about the room, models stepped onto the runway filling the room with a spectrum of soft creams and icy blues. The first look was an oversized beige set, draped casually over a mesh tank-top, and appearing as comfortable as a warm blanket. This was shortly followed by a diamond encrusted jacket in a similar soft beige, and speckled suit-style skirt over chunky brown boots – which were later revealed to have been 3D printed. 

Dior Homme ©

This trend of delicately draped pieces in the most irresistible fabrics continued throughout the collection, traversing deep browns, smart blues, and bright yellows amidst the cream. Yves Saint Laurent’s collection in 1958, named “L’Eléphant Blanc” aka white elephant, similarly utilised a pale colour palette to showcase the technical skill of his collection. Whilst he showed his mastery of the Dior a-line, he also subverted the silhouette, pulling it into a then modern contact. 

Kim Jones’ reimagining of Yves Saint Laurent’s groundbreaking designs, transported into a modern context, were as new as they were classic. Blending aesthetics from contemporary fashion with styles from over fifty years ago is no simple feat, but one that Dior Homme FW23 undeniably achieved earlier today. The whole collection was an ode to luxury, and thus an ode to one of the iconic designers who shaped luxury at Dior.

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LOUIS VUITTON ©

Under the direction of enigmatic KidSuper founder and designer, Colm Dillane, Louis Vuitton delivered a fresh brand ethos for its FW23 Menswear collection. Post-Virgil, a new tradition has been born, with the creative reins handed over to a guest designer. Though the majority of the designs were created in-house by the Studio Prêt-à-Porter Homme team, the orchestration had KidSuper’s distinguishably playful style written all over it. As a new horizon beckoned for Louis Vuitton, Colm Dillane guided the ship with ease.

@CANDLESTIX ©

A NEW ERA DAWNS FOR LV

Whilst it seemed inevitable that the next designer at the helm would be compared to the late Abloh, KidSuper’s vision this season was an unexpected but exciting usher into a new era for the French house. Renowned for his extensive colour exploration and bold design choices, Dillane successfully manipulates intriguing visages and draws on heavy inspiration from oil paintings in his designs. 

LOUIS VUITTON ©

In true KidSuper style, Dillane’s penchant for adventurous silhouettes and experimentation with difficult materials was clear throughout the collection. His appointment arguable only goes to prove how open Louis Vuitton is to future technological innovation within their designs.

Colm understood the assignment this season. Seamlessly blending his own distinct evocative aesthetic with LV’s iconic elements, this KidSuper directed collection merged heritage and contemporary visions as one. 

A desert-camo trench jacket in classic house style flowed down into monochromatic, muted sneakers and vivid, electric graphics rolled out alongside scores of iconic monogram-patterned pieces – a playful combination of classic Louis Vuitton details and Dillane’s streetwear touch.

LOUIS VUITTON ©

Taking influence from the artisanal, thin-line drawings that we often see within his main line, Dillane stitched and sewed various silhouettes with his signature raw techniques, rendering similarities to treasured vintage store finds. His use of patches and core primary colours are unique to KidSuper’s vision and in conjunction with classic Louis Vuitton designs, gave the collection an attainably personal feel. 

ROSALÍA ADDED CHAOS TO THE MIX

In rare form, the event’s starring performer was not only accredited with providing the show’s soundtrack, but was a part of the show itself. Rosalía, the TikTok beloved Spanish artist, danced, sung and exuded generally chaotic energy atop the same gargantuan toy car that was initially featured in the opening video. 

Throughout the show, Rosalía dominated the the set (notably laid out like a childhood bedroom) with confidence and classic LV poise. Winding up in the backseat of the car, she posed for the camera and flexed her distended puffer coat, eventually finding herself interacting with the models throwing plush animals out of the trunk whilst they branded the walls with markers. 

At one point, the show even came to an abrupt halt as Rosalía and a model circled around the main portion of the stage, parading to the echoing beat of the show soundtrack.

SLOGANS ACROSS THE BOARD

Slogans played a major role in this collection, serving as a way for Dillane to fuse his nostalgic imagination with Louis Vuitton’s historic spirit, including one piece with “Fantastic imagination” emblazoned across the front. For Dillane, a youth-like vision was the driving force within the show.

Further along we saw a plaid creation with a graphic placed across the model’s midsection, running onto the sleeves. Emblazoned with “Blurry vision of a bright future,” the motif featured on illustrative printed pieces and was spotted once more splashed across an 80s-themed, black-and-white suit in a burnt orange hue.

OUTERWEAR GOT A PLAYFUL UPDATE

For FW23, LV’s choices of outerwear were not only vast – but immensely unique. Tailored, monochromatic looks featured alongside a variety of checked coats, whilst a heritage-meets-playful spotted trench upped the ante.

@KIDSUPER

The outerwear offerings progressed into some more archive-inspired looks – including a bomber jacket with provocatively placed pockets – and a full-bodied leather jacket. Meanwhile, a vast shearling coat stole the show with the addition of a matching mini Speedy bag.

The question now looms – will Dillane stay for the long haul at LV following the collection’s success? We’ll soon find out if the industry rumours ring true.

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DR. MARTENS ©

We might be halfway through Paris Men’s Fashion Week, but the drops just keep on coming.

This week, Loewe entered the Studio Ghibli universe, Dr. Martens teamed up with Undercover and SSENSE debuted an Abaga Velli capsule collection. Featuring pop-ups, Coachella teases and nostalgic collabs, stay with us for our full Friday roundup of everything you need to know.

LET’S GO! NEW BOTTEGA

Matthieu Blazy’s latest drop from Bottega Veneta’s summer collection is here at last. Focusing on the ever-moving pace of the world, the Andiamo bag (meaning ‘Let’s go!’ in Italian) features classic Bottega Intrecciato elements with a fresh range of colours including a deep, wine red. Combining calf skin crafted leather suitable for all-year wear, gold knot strap detailing and an updated, genderless silhouette, the Andiamo is the perfect Summer bag for 2023.

BOTTEGA VENETA ©

SALOMON CHAMPIONS OUTDOOR HERITAGE

Mountaineering footwear frontrunners Salomon and German-Persian designer Boris Bidjan Saberi have teamed up to drop a unique FW23 that takes inspiration from the label’s outdoor design references. Utilitarianism elements blended with Saberi’s love for climbing come together as one for this seasonal capsule collection titled “Athletic Bouldering”. Created in partnership with climbing legend Fred Nicole and label So Ill, the collection will be available to shop in worldwide boutiques for FW23.

SALOMON ©

LOEWE ENTERS THE STUDIO GHIBLI UNIVERSE

Loewe have joined forces with animation legends Studio Ghibli for an unforgettable final collection based on the studio’s iconic film ‘Howl’s Moving Castle’. Featuring a selection of carefully crafted RTW bags and accessories, core elements of the fan-favourite animated movie are reelected in through leather-embossed characters and vibrant, colourful scenes. The collection hits pre-sale on Loewe.com on Feb 1st.

LOEWE ©

DR. MARTENS X UNDERCOVER CELEBRATES 70S FILM NOSTALGIA 

Dr. Martens and Undercover just dropped the footwear collab of the season with their latest three-piece capsule. Partnering with Jun Takahashi once more for this grid-emblazoned collection, expect a solid remix of Undercover’s signature Japanese underground aesthetics with DM’s signature silhouettes. Featuring three new distinctive checked designs in Cherry Red, Blue and Black with classic DM design elements (such as their iconic yellow stitching) throughout, the capsule is heavily inspired by Takahashi’s love for 70’s cinema and boasts ‘WE MAKE NOISE NOT CLOTHES’ embossings on each style. 

DR. MARTENS ©

KALI UCHIS: A NEW TRACK & COACHELLA TEASE

Following the announcement that Billboard award winning singer Kali Uchis would feature on the immense Coachella 2023 artist roster, the enigmatic musician is back once more with a brand new track titled “I Wish You Roses”. Dubbed as ‘divine’ by NME, the track, released via Geffen Records, features a kaleidoscopic Cho Gi-Seok directed music video shot in Korea. Speaking about the single’s meaning, Uchi explained “This song is about being able to release people with love. It could be a friend, a lover, or someone else, but the point is to celebrate releasing people from your life without being resentful or bitter.”  Watch the full rose-tinted music video here.

KALI UCHIS ©

ABAGA VELLI CHANNELS STREET ELEGANCE WITH SSENSE

With an impressive celebrity fan roster including Little Simz and John Boyega at the crux of their cult designs, ABAGA VELLI is going global. Following a successful debut of the label’s COUP 001 Collection, ABAGA VELLI Creative Director Adémidé Udoma’s is back with a second symbolic release, this time for a limited capsule collection with SSENSE. With a focus on core experiences surrounding community and culture, ABAGA VELLI’s Made-in-London capsule includes a range of tailored pieces, pleated finishes and distressed shirts. Bonus points for the Varsity Leather Jacket and a striking ‘ANONYMOUS CYNIC’ emblazoned Water Resistant Tote, both exclusive to SSENSE. For ABAGA VELLI, Udoma’s vision is simple: traditional tailoring meets Street Elegance.

ABAGA VELLI ©

MCM & SONY DROP  “A FILTR TAKE”

Luxury leaders MCM have dropped a partnership with Sony Music Entertainment’s music platform ‘FILTR’ dubbed “A FILTR TAKE”. The collab marks the reaffirmation of MCM’s heritage roots (tracing all the way back to the German brand’s 1976 inception during the revolutionary discotheque and rock & roll era) mixed in with a brand new generation-defying take on the future of the music industry. The campaign, featuring 3X Platinum “You Broke Me First” artist Tate McRae, includes standout shots of McRae blending in with naturistic surroundings and hanging out on a wine-red shoot set, showcasing key MCM pieces (classic and new) such their Plisse Skirt and Intarsia Knit Top, Aren Backpack in Visetos and all-new Monogram Denim Jacquard range. The full campaign and accompanying interview episode is now available to watch now via mcmworldwide.com.

MCM ©

ASICS POPS UP IN PARIS

That’s right – ASICS have popped up in Paris, and it’s as slick as you’d expect. Carrying on from their repertoire of industry leading collabs, the running gear giants have joined forces with Andersson Bell, Awake NY and Brain Dead to release boundary-pushing updates of three classic sneaker styles: GEL-Nimbus 3, GEL-MC Plus V and GEL-Cumulus 16. Culminating in an exclusive pop-up store in Paris, the capsule features a range of pastel colourways and iconic silhouettes. The pop-up is located at 35 Rue Des Francs-Bourgeois, 75004, Paris and will run from 19-21 of January 2023.

ASICS ©

FENG CHEN WANG AW23: A “KNOT BY KNOT” AFFAIR

At the heart of Feng Chen Wang’s latest collection showcased in Paris, the invitation to connect as a community was extended to all. Debuting their traditionally gender-liberated pieces via traditional Chinese design techniques (with a Western twist), the concept of ‘meeting’ and knitting’ came together as one. This season, the label focused on the Chinese “Hundred Families Robe” tradition, signifying a piece of cloth that 100 friends and neighbours receive up to 100 days after giving birth to a child. Sleek tailoring met modern takes on denim and an all-rounded colour palette encapsulated the core element of the show: to create a sense of unity.

FENG CHEN WANG ©

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See also: RICK OWENS FW23 HOLDS A MIRROR UP TO THE FASHION INDUSTRY

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This season, Wang was thinking especially about the original Chinese “Hundred Families Robe” tradition, whereby, 100 days after giving birth to a child, parents will visit 100 people – from family members to friends and neighbours – and receive a piece of cloth. These fabric donations are then sewn together into a patchwork robe, a shared symbol of love. Similarly, this season, Wang gathered surplus fabric from seasons past, splicing them together in a way that is not only sustainable but symbolic.

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