Sustainability has become a buzzword in the world of fashion, which has unfortunately led to ‘green washing’, a term used to call out brands that spend more time, effort and money into appearing eco-friendly than taking actual steps to minimise environmental impact. ISKO has branched out from the mass of pseudo-sustainability, by creating its own guidelines and testing all sorts of chemicals and production methods in house, in an effort to create as little waste and create as much of a non-hazardous environment as possible.
While all its denim is manufactured in Turkey, ISKO’s Creative Room Services is a one of a kind denim laundry located in London, where everything from washing to finishings takes place. Innovation meets sustainability in this place of expertise, where denim production is looked under a lens of “streamlined and simplified solutions”.
ISKO’s efforts have not gone unnoticed, with industry members tapping into its facilities and knowledge for their own collections that have made it onto the Fashion Week runway. One noteworthy example is Chet Lo, with his recent FW23 collection, who visited ISKO’s Creative Room to create his black denim looks. The list is lengthy though, with emerging designers such as Bethany Williams, Bianca Saunders and Matty Bovan, just as many other established high fashion brands and high street retailers like Urban Outfitters.
The technologies used by ISKO vary from station to station, depending on what the denim requires. One that instantly felt revolutionary yet so simple at the same time was the use of its Jeanologia water repurposing machine. As is well known already, the production of denim requires a lot of water – over 3,700 litres of water is needed from cotton production to store delivery, according to the UN. By conducting thorough research and investing in the right machinery, ISKO is not only able to decrease that number significantly, it also recycles all the water used for any pair through a filtration system, something that seems so apparent to implement but is actually quite rare in the denim industry.
Another way in which ISKO is taking further steps to limit its waste is through its latest initiative Ctrl+Z. Referencing the computer command to undo, Ctrl+Z focuses on regenerating fabrics only using recycled fibres, from cotton to polyester. Not only does this meet all the right sorts of certification requirements and minimise a ton of waste, Ctrl+Z’s fabrics are actually more durable and offer its finished products a longer life cycle than traditional denim pieces found on the current market.
This is only scratching the surface on how ISKO is transforming the landscape of denim production, with technologies and production methods that keep in mind its sustainable end goal throughout each step. Though when it comes to the topic of environmentally friendly clothing, it is clear that experts and scientists must be involved in the conversation, considering its extremely technical nature, which ISKO of course involves.
While scientists may be the ones to turn to, that is no reason to gatekeep the information from members of the fashion industry. On top of being a leader in sustainability, ISKO’s dedication to education is yet another marker of its genuine efforts. Transparency is the key issue when it comes to sustainability – if a brand labels something as ‘green’ but fails to provide a step-by-step explanation of its production and sourcing, can we really trust it? Not really. Not only does ISKO welcome those who enquire to visit its laundry and discover all its technologies, it is host to ongoing discussions and work with the design students from universities, such as Central Saint Martins, who are essentially the future of fashion.
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To kickstart your week with another edition of your Monday Briefing, brands are amping up their collaborative efforts, from CÎROC Vodka to Palace, partnering with UGG for a stormy boot that has flooded our feeds. In other news, Timberland is celebrating 50 years of its Original Boot by tapping global creatives to reimagine the staple piece and the lawsuit that hit artist Donald Glover back in 2021 has finally come to an end. Keep reading to get your weekly fix.
CÎROC VODKA GETS A MAKEOVER BY RAPPERS KREPT & KONAN & FASHION HOUSE MJB
We have all come to know the iconic CÎROC Vodka bottle, having encountered it at some point in our lives. In an exciting collaboration with rappers Krept and Konan, as well as British fashion brand MJB, the bottle is receiving a stylish makeover. Accompanied by its own bag, the vodka bottle features gold, turquoise graphic detailing as well as white writing. Together, the collaboration also offers a t-shirt, stack pants, a windbreaker and a jacket, all available at Harvey Nichols.
GUCCI GOES CRYPTO WITH YUGA LABS
Making the move towards a digitised future, Gucci is now accepting crypto in a newly signed partnership with Yuga Labs. The Web3 company is most known for its NFT projects, including Bored Ape Yacht Club and runs Otherside, a virtual world and game. With this new partnership, Gucci aims to further explore fashion’s place in the metaverse, with entertainment in mind.
JJJJOUND GIVES US MORE PORTER BAGS
Following the success of its 2021 “Navy” series, JJJJound is back with Porter to release two new bags in the signature off-white colour. Founder and designer Justin Saunders’ tonal aesthetic meets Porter’s utilitarian feel through these accessories, making it the third time these two come together. The bags themselves are made out of Nylon and feature gold clasp detailing and a co-branded stitched label. The bags will launch on March 31 online and in select stores.
DONALD GLOVER WINS A COPYRIGHT INFRINGEMENT LAWSUIT
The 2018 hit This Is America by Donald Glover, also known as Childish Gambino, has become a global phenomenon, confronting the ongoing systemic racism going on in America. In 2021, Kidd Wes filed a copyright infringement lawsuit against the artist, accusing him of copying his own 2016 song Made In America. Yesterday, judge Victor Marrero dismissed the case, ruling that the similarities, both lyrical and composition-wise, were not substantial enough to qualify as an infringement.
TIMBERLAND X CLOT KICKSTART THE BOOT’S 50TH ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATIONS
The Original Timberland Boot is turning 50 years old this year, and to celebrate, the shoe company has launched a new project titled “Future75”. The project will release a series of collaborations with all kinds of creatives to reinvent the classic piece. CLOT’s Edison Chen is up first, in an “East Meets West” collaboration that sees the Timberland boot decorated with a tiger print and a Buddhist proverb. The collaboration also features apparel, notably a quilted vest in a military green colour, all of which will be available online on March 30.
GIRLS DON’T CRY X HUMAN MADE COME TOGETHER FOR SPRING
NIGO and VERDY’s relationship and collaborations go way back, but their latest includes a link up between HUMAN MADE and Girls Don’t Cry. Getting ready for the springtime, the collection includes apparel such as quilted jackets, a varsity-inspired jacket, crewnecks, graphic tees and pants, with both brand’s graphic detailing. The range also offers a beret-style hat, keychains, bags, slippers and even heart-shaped pillows and a container. The collection is now available for purchase on HUMAN MADE’s website.
THE UGG X PALACE COLLABORATION IS DROPPING SOON
You’ve probably seen the images of the UGG x Palace boots on your feed, decorated with white and blue lightning bolts. The time has come and the collaborative UGGs, in “Chestnut” and “Black” colourways, are now dropping this week, alongside more Palace clothing. This includes an array of hoodies and crewnecks, three tactical vests, shorts, caps and bucket hats. The collection drops on March 31 on Palace’s website, and on March 25 on the brand’s WeChat store.
A UNIQUE PAIR OF LOUIS VUITTON BOXING GLOVES ARE UP FOR GRABS
With its dust bag carrying the embroidered initials K.L., for Karl Lagerfeld, these Louis Vuitton boxing gloves may be one of the rarest fashion items on the market. Picked up by L.A. based curator and reseller Justin Reed, the LV monogram gloves have been authenticated by Louis Vuitton, which have also determined the pair dates back to 2014. The gloves also come with a monogram briefcase containing a boxing training mat. The whole set is now up for grabs for a whopping $15,000.
NIKE’S OG BLUE TNS ARE SET TO MAKE THEIR COMEBACK
Yesterday marked the celebration of Nike’s Air Max Day. Keeping the festivities going, the shoe giant has just announced the return of a favourite, the Air Max Plus OG TNs in “Hyper Blue”. A cult favourite, these sneakers were last released in 2018 in a “Sunset” and “Voltage Purple”. The “Hyper Blue” editions first hit the market in 1998, dressing subculture all over Europe. The pair is now set to make its comeback in Spring of 2024.
EBAY’S SWAP ‘EM OUT STORE IS NOW OPEN
Reselling has become a huge part of fashion, and has been intrinsically linked to sneaker culture for decades. Now, the reselling platform eBay is jumping on the trend, opening its Swap ‘Em Out London store. The concept follows its name: you can bring in an old pair of shoes and swap ‘em out for a new pair, worth up to three times the original value. The space offers a wide range of shoes to choose from, like classic Air Max 95s, Dunks, Jordan 1s and Jordan 4s, just to name a few. The store also offers eBay’s authenticity guarantee, ensuring all sneakers brought in and out of the store are legit.
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FROZEMODE has only released two singles – Maybelline last year and Simon Says this year – but that hasn’t stopped them from becoming one of the most hyped British underground bands. The group is made up of 3 individuals, I.V.GATLIN, Cho-Hollo and Lisong, who all hop on the mic to deliver critical rap lyrics that ooze of confidence and an ‘I don’t give a f*ck’ attitude. Blending several genres at once, notably rap, punk and DnB, FROZEMODE has created a unique sound that is quintessential to their band identity. For World Recycling Day, the trio headed out to hit the thrift stores to pick up some second hand gems. We chatted with FROZEMODE on this day to mark the occasion, as well as getting more insight into who they are and what their creative process is like.
Hey guys ! Can you introduce yourselves to our readers?
Yo people, we’re FROZEMODE. We’re three individual artists who come together to make music. We go by the names of Lisong, I.V.Gatlin and Cho-Hollo. First and foremost we are brothers, brothers who just want to have fun, express ourselves and at the same time try and bring something different to the scene. Taking inspiration from grime, punk and DnB (to name a few) our music is grounded in our London roots but soon due to be universal.
Let’s talk about your band name. How did you come up with FROZEMODE?
Cho-Hollo and I.V.Gatlin were throwing around name ideas back in college and landed on the name FROZEMODE. FROZE is something more emotional and gritty. We live in a cold world, which has given us cold hearts. Also, just like how you can’t control the temperature, you can’t control the MODE music puts you in. If FROZEMODE wants to turn you up we’ll turn you up, if FROZEMODE wants to chill you out we’ll chill you out.
Your 2022 single Maybelline has a UK garage/drum & bass feel to it while this year’s Simon Says is a new-age punk single. Where do you find your musical inspiration? Any particular artists you look up to?
We always want to cross genres with our music especially since we all have slightly different tastes. To name just a few, we take inspiration from artists like Skepta and Idles to Kendrick Lamar and Young Thug.
As a group, coming together with ideas is very different than as a solo artist. How does the creative process work in Frozemode? Does one person take the lead for the raps and background instrumentals or do you all riff off each other?
The way we come together on a track always changes depending on what each individual song requires. Sometimes we write together in the room and sometimes we write alone in our own time and bring the new vibes to the other members. But we all always write our own parts and put them together, together. In terms of the background instrumentals we have been working with a bunch of great producers and you might hear a Lisong instrumental on a FROZEMODE track soon too!
Obviously when dealing with a group of people, each person will have their own creative vision and voice. How do you resolve creative conflict – whether it comes to music or dressing accordingly?
A lot of communication! Also, we never take away from what the others are doing, instead we add to it. We want to let the fact we are three individual people shine through and this carries over into fashion as well.
You recently went second hand shopping in honour of Global Recycling Day. Tell me a little bit about that experience.
Was a lot of fun, man. To be fair it was nothing new for us, we like to go vintage/charity shopping anyway because you can find a lot of rare garms that way. Also, obviously it’s nice to know that whilst you’re looking fly you’re not contributing to an unnecessary waste of materials or to a company that uses sweatshops etc. There are loads of great vintage shops to choose from nowadays – for example, Duke’s Cupboard in London, North South Vintage in Leeds or Bubble Vintage in Nottingham, also you can find loads of hidden gems in most charity shops if you know what you’re looking for. We went to Brick Lane as it is full of vintage shops. A good place to check out when you’re there is The Brick Lane Vintage Market as they have over loads and loads of independent traders all in one location so you are bound to find something sick. Cho-Hollo picked out a peng YSL jacket from there which he wore for our live-show later that night.
What would you say is the best way to celebrate Global Recycling Day?
Vintage/charity shopping is definitely a good way and also helps support some smaller businesses and good causes too. Rappers – stop recycling the same tired bars and recycle some rubbish instead.
Thrifting can be tricky because you have to sift through a lot before finding that one gem. What has been a top tier piece you’ve found while vintage shopping?
Lisong: A Burberry Fleece I got in Newcastle.
I.V.Gatlin: I once copped 5 unique Missoni jumpers for less than £100.
Cho-Hollo: That YSL jacket I just copped.
How do you think the music industry can contribute towards a more sustainable future?
Less physical releases, as great as they are – maybe it could work to have digital music accompanied with a physical memento that uses a lot less material than a traditional vinyl release for example. Also, more sustainable touring – it isn’t really possible to not use ANY fuel burning vehicles right now, but better forward planning and artists sharing transport etc can definitely help. We need to work together to make a difference. Also, less single use plastic at venues – we are seeing this more and more but it’s still not as widespread as it could be!
With only two released tracks, you’ve only given us a teaser of what FROZEMODE can offer. Will you be releasing any more music this year? What can we expect in the future from FROZEMODE?
Yeah, loads more music to come. We have loads of live shows lined up and tracks in the bank. We’ll keep on being ourselves and hopefully keep growing in that way, so watch this space.
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TikTok has given the platform for small artists to showcase their work to a global audience. For Cam, the fashion nail artist, this has allowed her to highlight some of her best work, including a Chanel-inspired nail ring and Studio Ghibli nail paintings. We were so impressed by her work that we reposted one of her TikToks in which she shows us how she creates jewellery by using poly gel.
Instantly, our community loved it. @rbm_needsacat said what we were all thinking by commenting “its a need”. While some were impressed, others took it to a whole new level, losing their minds over the jewellery, including @ming1030 who expressed “OMG IM OBSESSED”. We appreciate the top tier all-caps enthusiasm.
@kakasensei22 requested the “tutorial please!!” while @vivicoiba could not believe what they were seeing with their own eyes, “Wait! You’re telling me this is glue?” Cam explained that she uses poly gel with chrome to create her pieces. A few commenters raised their concerns about the skin’s reaction to the gel but not to worry, Cam only uses these pieces for small amounts of time on shoots.
When it comes to small designers who have to not only create and produce their designs on their own, but also shoot, market and sell all of it at the same time, not only does the workload get hefty but also costy. @ihatesmoothies pointed out that this is a “Great side gig for gel manicurists”. While we don’t think Cam will sell these any time soon as they are only used for shoots, it’s a great way for a nail artist to style their works without falling down a rabbit hole of expenses.
Another in which TikTok has aided emerging artists is simply by the sharing of information. As @mintblu42 points out “Bling out of a glue and metallic paint powder, so inventive!” A simple video like this one can inspire other artists, or just about anyone who’s feeling creative. Just remember if you’re going to recreate, don’t forget to give credit.
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Nike explores “A Whole New Frequency” in its latest campaign, celebrating Air Max Day. Set to take place just mere days away, on March 26, Nike’s event will take a look back on some of the most beloved Air Maxes, from the 1s to the 95s, which have become cultural zeitgeists, inspiring generations of sneakerheads.
To celebrate the occasion, Nike has released a brand new shoe named the Air Max Pulse, expanding the franchise. The sneaker features the classic silhouette with its heel unit, as well a red Swoosh that is placed on the synthetic leather tab, joining the breathable mesh. It also has a new Air Max logo found on its tongue and will be made in several colour ways, including “Summit White”.
Hyping us up for the day, Nike has also released a new campaign featuring British emerging artists Nia Archives and Jeshi to star in the video. Taking cues from London’s vibrant streets, the campaign explores the bold, concret, brutalist architecture of the city’s buildings, a key inspiration for the design of the new shoe. Both musicians are seen wearing the Air Max Pulse while surrounded by floating bubbles, a nod to Nike’s technology.
By tapping into these two up-and-coming artists, Nike has set its eyes on its prime target: Gen Z. In fact, the new Air Max Pulse was created with youth in mind, offering Gen Z their own generational shoe.
Apart from honouring the Gen Z-tailored Air Max Pulse, Nike will also acknowledge its past iconic models that have paved the way. One shoe that is making its highly anticipated comeback is the Air Max 1 ‘86 Big Bubble, originally released in 1987 and rising in rarity and value ever since. Nike will also be delivering new iterations of the Air Max 1 Slide and the Air Max Scorpion.
The new Air Max Pulse, which will retail at $150, as well as the other footwear, will be made available on Nike’s website on Air Max Day, March 26.
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Fashion continues to push the boundaries of creativity and innovation this week, with plenty of collections and collaborations gone underway. This week, we’ve got a special link up between Alicia Keys and Moncler, who had already worked together on Moncler’s The Art of Genius event during London Fashion Week. JD has also released a new campaign, titled “King of Trainers”, showing off some of their best pairs including exclusives. Keep reading for your Friday Roundup.
JD IS THE KING OF TRAINERS
The UK-based footwear retailer JD features all the sneakers you could possibly think of in its latest campaign titled “King of Trainers”. Covering all grounds, JD has featured men’s, women’s and kids’ options, spanning from the everyday icon to some exclusive pairs. A favourite of anyone’s, we find the Nike Air Max 90s, 95s and 97s, as well as classic Vans models, the adidas Ozweegos, running shoes by ON RUNNING and comfort shoes by Birkenstock. Exclusive to JD, we can also spot Nike AF1’07 LV8 and the New Balance 1960R trainers in a grey colourway. All styles are now available at the “King of Trainers” website.
CLARKS GIVES ITS PLATFORM TO TRAILBLAZING ARTISTS
For its SS23 global campaign, Clarks celebrates individuality, creativity and wellbeing by tapping model and ambassador Jourdan Dunn, poet and model Sonny Hall, and the Royal Ballet’s Principal Dancer Marcelino Sambé. Titled “The World Ahead”, Clarks envisions the future and the social impact the brand has that could shape it. The collection introduces a new silhouette, the Torhill boot, a new icon bridging the gap between its Shoes and Originals lines. Inspired by its 90s predecessor, the Torhill boot is reminiscent of Clarks’ classic Wallabee, with a chunky sole and will be made available in a series of colours.
THE ALICIA KEYS X MONCLER COLLAB IS HERE
Linking up earlier this year for a very special performance at the Moncler The Art of Genius event during London Fashion Week, Alicia Keys now reveals her collection made in collaboration with the Italian brand. Inspired by 90s New York, the gender-bending collection features hues of dark greens on sleeveless puffer vests and matching trousers, baggy jackets and pant legs, as well as an aluminium-like full look, consisting of a parka, light jacket and trousers. The collection is now available for purchase on Moncler’s site.
CONVERSE CHAMPIONS CREATIVITY WITH LIVERPOOL FC
Titled “creativity from the ground up”, Converse x Liverpool FC’s collaboration puts emphasis on its inspirational vision by tapping various artists to feature in its campaign. Among those present is the singer Rain Castillo, broadcaster Rubi Deschamps, artist Sterling Rose Kelly, rapper Dayzy and campaigner Roopa Vyas, as well as familiar faces from the LFC team. The collection itself offers 9 pieces, including the classic Chuck 70 high top sneakers decorated with Liver birds, and will launch on April 6.
TIMBERLAND GOES BOATING IN ITS NEW COLLECTION
Releasing a 5 piece collection that revisits its 3-Eye Lug Handsewn boat shoe which first appeared in 1978, Timberland has turned to its work heritage for inspiration. 3 new iterations of the Boat Shoe can be found, prioritising hand-sewn stitching and rugged outersoles, as well as workwear inspired clothing, including a Cropped SS Shop shirt and a Hemp Chore jacket. Each piece is built upon Timberland’s history of over 40 years, capturing the bold spirit of workwear attire. To celebrate the release of this collection, Timberland will also be hosting a series of workshops – from shoe cleaning to tattooing – in its Carnaby Street store in London between March 25 and April 6.
UD REVEALS ITS LINEUP FOR ITS ‘INDUSTRY TAKEOVER’ FESTIVAL
The London-based youth organisation UD has been supporting Black culture and communities for 20 years by creating a bridge between artists and musicians alike. Taking place in UD’s new east-London home the “Talent House”, the organisation will hold a week-long “Industry Takeover” event in which will host conversations, workshops and performances dedicated to educating the next generation of musicians. With an incredible roster of talent, including V&A’s Africa & Diaspora curator Jacqueline Springer, and tickets being free, this is not an event you want to miss.
THE CITY INSPIRED C.P. COMPANY’S AND KANO’S COLLABORATION
Exclusive to Flannels, the C.P. Company x Kano collection revises the Metropolis Series, specifically the Field Jacket. Paying homage to his own musical journey, Kano revised the jacket by adding interior details reminiscent of his early studio sessions when producing “Hoodies All Summer”. The jacket also features the water-resistant GORE-TEX 3L technology and comes, for the first time, in an all-black colourway. The release of the Field Jacket is accompanied by a campaign video shot in the streets of London and Milan, tapping into that metropolis lifestyle. The collaborative jacket will be available for purchase on March 30 on Flannels’ website.
DR. MARTENS GOES OCELOT FOR ITS LATEST COLLECTION
The iconic shoe brand turned to nature to inspire its new collection. The new Dr. Martens shoes, which includes 3 different silhouettes – Jorge, Adrien and 1461 – are all decorated with an Ocelot Print Hair-On leather. The brand continues to explore its rich history based on subversive instincts, bringing the wild to the smart shoes. While no date has been announced yet, we can expect the new collection to drop next month.
BEN SHERMAN TAPS ARTIST PAULI LOVEJOY FOR IT SS23 CAMPAIGN
The multi-disciplinary artist whose talents span from drumming and DJing to creative directing Pauli Lovejoy can add model to his extensive list of occupations. Starring in Ben Sherman’s ‘B By Ben Sherman’ campaign, Pauli Lovejoy can be seen soaking in the Los Angeles sun while wearing the new designs. The collection itself includes a multi-coloured short-sleeves polo top and a relaxed fit grey zip up hoodie and is now available for purchase on Ben Sherman’s website.
REPRESENT TURNS GREEN FOR ITS NEW COLLECTION
Titled “Owners’ Club”, the British luxury brand Represent has just dropped a 3 piece collection centred around the colour green, specifically Island Green. Putting emphasis on its craftsmanship, the collection revisits some of Represent’s classic pieces, including a hoodie, t-shirt and mesh shorts all adorning the brand logo, as well as a new edition of the Reptor Low sneaker. The collection, which ranges between £85 and £155, is now available for purchase online.
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Led by designer NIGO, A Bathing Ape, or BAPE, has become one of the most successful brands to come out of the Japanese streetwear wave in the 90s/early 00s that became popularised worldwide thanks to the support of American rapper and hip hop stars such as Jay Z, Pharrell Williams and Kanye West. Its instantly recognizable graphics, from Baby Milo to its loud camo print, and design elements, such as the zipper detailing that closed up all the way at the hood, helped push BAPE to become one of the most coveted and hyped brands within streetwear.
Its cultural success could not have happened without one thing though: collaborations. Known as the brand worn by rappers, BAPE has collaborated with artists such Big Sean, Pusha T and Flatbush Zombies, as well as tapping other non-fashion collaborators such as the KAWS artist Brian Donelley. From hitting up some of the hottest streetwear labels, such as Pharrell’s BBC, to tapping into homewear, BAPE became a leading face of the hypebeast movement. Here are 5 of our favourite collaborations that have made BAPE an international cultural phenomenon.
BAPE X KAWS
One of BAPE’s earlier link ups was with the American artist Brian Donelley, most known under the name of KAWS. Dating back to FW05, the collaboration was part of BAPE’s seasonal collection, which also had a collaboration with Marvel. The BAPE x KAWS pieces include a range of t-shirts that merge BAPE’s recognizable characters with KAWS’ playful ‘X’ figurines, with The Bathing Ape receiving the ‘X’ eyes treatment, notably on a white and grey long tee.
The two also released a pair of sneakers together in white and grey, as well as featuring red detailing on the laces and on BAPE’s star logo scattered across the shoe. Ever since, the two have collaborated together, notably for SS10 which offered the Dissected Milo Companion t-shirt. The character was also turned into a KAWS-style 3D Medicom toy in three different colourways, becoming figurine collectors’ dream item, now selling on Sotheby’s for over $2,000.
BAPE X NINTENDO
The reason why BAPE has become an integral part of pop culture and one of the most successful brands to come out of the streetwear Japanese wave is because of its ability to brand outside of fashion. Not only has BAPE put itself on the map by tapping into the world of American hip-hop, it has also landed in our own hands by collaborating with fellow Japanese brand Nintendo on one of our favourite gaming consoles: the DS.
Initially released in 2004, the Nintendo DS became an intrinsic part of our childhoods, and by 2008, BAPE had become a part of the story. The collaborative console was decorated with BAPE logos mixed in with Mario Kart graphics and was released alongside an apparel line that featured zip-up hoodies, crew neck and tees with the same motifs. The collaboration was such a success that later that year, the two released the DS Lite Gold Edition, where the graphics were seen in an all-white format. It’s no surprise that this pairing became a success, merging together the world of streetwear and gaming.
BAPE X MODERNICA
Tapping into another non-fashion brand, BAPE ventured into the world of homeware when it collaborated with the L.A.-based furniture brand Modernica in 2009. Together, the two blended a classic style, the Case Study Side Chair, originally designed in 1984 for Herman Miller, with BAPE’s brash signature camo motif. NIGO has always been one to revisit established styles and design through a contemporary lens, so this collaboration felt like a natural extension to the BAPE universe, which hypebeasts were eager to decorate their homes with.
As with most collaborations undertaken by BAPE, this was not the only time the two worked together. After the success of its first Case Study Side Chair, BAPE and Modernica revised the seat in numerous ways, as well as working on other furniture pieces such as metal side table and a wooden coffee table. In 2019, the two created the limited edition Fiber Side Chair, which was sold for $700 exclusively at BAPE’s L.A. flagship store to celebrate one year since its opening, which also happened to be the 10 year anniversary since the first BAPE x Modernica collaboration.
BAPE X KID CUDI
The Japanese brand has collaborated with many artists such as Kanye West, Drake’s OVO, Lil Wayne, Lil Yachty… The list goes on. But one collaboration with an artist that stands out is the one with Kid Cudi. Having once been a BAPE employee in its NYC SoHo flagship store, Kid Cudi and NIGO’s long-standing relationship has stood the test of time, both being there for one another at pivotal moments in their respective careers. The original collaboration dates back to 2009, just after Kid Cudi dropped his first album “Man On The Moon: The End Of Day”. Together, the two created a range of t-shirts part of the Baby Milo range, featuring the emblematic monkey graphic as well as a rendition of Kid Cudi in the same graphic style.
The collaborative relationship has kept on going to this day, with a limited edition t-shirt range for ComplexCon in 2016 that remains to this day some of their most coveted pieces, resiling for over thousands of dollars. Cudi and NIGO most recently came back together in 2021 to create BAPE’s largest collaborative collection with an artist, featuring 20 pieces. The garments themselves were presented in a special BAPE camo print titled “INTERGALACTIC” and featured both partners’ classic design elements such as the Shark and Tiger motifs and the “CUDI STA” branding. Together the two have created a symbiotic relationship that has placed them both in the eye of hip hop and streetwear’s finest.
BAPE X BILLIONAIRE BOYS CLUB
Pharrell and NIGO have held a two-decade long friendship and business partnership ever since their first meeting through their mutual friend Jacob ‘The Jeweler’. The two hit it off instantly and NIGO co-founded Pharrell’s apparel brand Billionaire Boys Club in 2003. It only makes sense that BBC and BAPE would collaborate on multiple occasions, given their similar aesthetics and close relationship. What is surprising, is that their first official collaboration came out in 2011, 8 years after the creation of BBC. The collection featured an array of tees that cross-designed its aesthetics, with the BBC logo found in BAPE’s classic camo print and Baby Milo can be seen in the Ice Cream emblem.
While this was their first official collaboration together, both NIGO and Pharrell have been designing for one another, notably in 2006 where Pharrell designed BAPE’s Roadsta sneaker silhouettes. Having known each other during the early days of streetwear and its explosion into popular culture thanks to the rap and hip hop stars sporting it, Pharrell and NIGO have both progressed immensely in the fashion industry. Now, NIGO is creative director of KENZO and Pharrell has just been appointed creative director at Louis Vuitton. Considering their history, a KENZO x Louis Vuitton collaboration could potentially be on its way.
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Bicester Village is truly a unique experience. Located by an hour train ride outside of London, it features over countless boutiques, with names like Gucci, Prada and Dior in the luxury department as well as other favourites such as Ugg, The North Face and Rituals. The outlet grounds also offer various dining options, considering most of its customers dedicate a full day to their shopping trip.
When we arrived at Bicester Village, we were welcomed into the Apartment, a luxury space available to those who book a private styling suite and offers a place to rest, drink and eat to its customers. The styling suites themselves are ample in size and are decorated with some of fashion’s finest books. But booking one is not required to enjoy the benefits Bicester Village has to offer.
The reason why Bicester Village is so appealing is its pricing. As an outlet store, the village is able to offer up to 60% off of its luxury goods, an unmatched competitive pricing. Originally built in 1995, Bicester Village was reported in 2015 to be the second most visited place in the UK by Chinese tourists, after Buckingham Palace. The Bicester collection has since grown, with stores in locations from Shanghai and Suzhou to boutiques all over Europe such as in Dublin, Frankfurt and Barcelona.
The concept of an outlet store has been around since the end of the 19 century, where employees could shop from their factories a selection of items that didn’t make the cut. Dedicated outlet spaces came about in the 70s, first seen in an old factory in the US that was turned into a site in which all defects and products that failed to sell were put up for sale at a much larger discount, saving a company from huge amounts of waste. Ever since, the opinion on outlet stores has been divided: either you love the discounts or you hate the concept.
Bicester Village is challenging that opinion by becoming a first destination for shoppers. Not only does the village offer massive discounts on its luxury pieces, it also features new products and collections. Recently, the Lacoste store held a pop up for its latest collaboration with Minecraft, featuring all the items from that collection.
With its already massive success found in Europe and Asia, The Bicester Collection has its eyes on its next target: New York. Aiming to change the American widespread mindset on outlet stores, the outlet is set to open its doors very soon right outside of Manhattan.
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See: IS FASHION FALLING APART OR INTO PLACE?
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Fashion, hun, are you okay? You’re scaring us. When a luxury brand changes its creative director, it’s a big deal, to put it lightly. But lately it seems that we hear of big names dropping their long standing creative director every other day. There have been countless long-winded Instagram posts of tearful goodbyes and excitement for the next chapter to come from some of the top designers in the game.
Whenever a house announces the departure or replacement of its current creative director, the rumours start flying around. Were they fired? Was it due to a creative dispute? Were their designs not selling? The true reasons are never really exposed. Instead a press release is sent out explaining that the designer and the house came to a friendly agreement to cut ties between one another, which only makes us wonder even more what happened behind closed doors. And with all the recent changes and new appointments within luxury houses, we can only ask ourselves what is actually going on with fashion right now?
SO, IS FASHION FALLING APART?
In shocking news that was brought to us in November of last year, Alessandro Michele announced his departure as creative director at Gucci, a position he had held for 7 years. Since 2015, Gucci and Michele had become a symbiotic entity, making it hard for us to imagine a Gucci without Michele’s maximalist, dream-like aesthetic.
The Italian designer reinvented the brand, taking its heritage and modernising it with his gender-fluid approach which spoke to a younger generation of Gucci fans. Not only did Michele create some of Gucci’s most iconic pieces – think of the fur-lined loafers or the collaborations with names like Palace – he also increased its sales from a revenue of €3.9 billion in 2015 to €9.7 billion in 2021. To say Michele’s directorship ending gave us whiplash is an understatement.
Another brand which has become so attached to its longstanding leader the two have become synonymous, but is now parting ways with them is Moschino with Jeremy Scott. Bringing in consumer culture and merging typically considered ‘low-end’ aesthetics into a luxury brand into a thoughtful take on our current society’s ways of operating, Scott’s decade at Moschino will go down in history as one of the most recognizable and playful eras in fashion.
But it’s not just creative directors that have been caught in this storm. Just a few days after a video of Law Roach realising he had been placed in second row behind his celebrity client Zendaya at a Louis Vuitton show went viral on TikTok, the stylist has announced his retirement. Earlier this month, Roach took to his Instagram to share the news, with a caption that left us wondering what truly happened for him to bite the bullet, which he phrased as “The politics, the lies and false narratives finally got me”.
@michelleyeohrocks Replying to @ownlyfhanz #lawroach #zendaya ♬ award season – Maya
With all of these top fashion figures quitting their roles, it seems as though fashion is undergoing a seismic change with a future that remains unclear. One brand that has created a path for its upcoming collections that still leaves us questioning the reasons behind its particular decision is Louis Vuitton with its recent appointment of Pharrell as its new artistic director, taking over the coveted spot held by Virgil Abloh before his passing. While SS24 will reveal its visual direction, many are still confused on the brand’s overall direction and thought process behind bringing in someone who isn’t necessarily a designer first.
The reason why many disapproved of Pharell at Louis Vuitton is because during the two years after Abloh’s death, the French heritage brand was rumoured to be in talks with more than just a few emerging designers. Rumours obviously started flying around about who would fill the empty position, with everyone putting in their two cents in, wishing for names like Martine Rose, Telfar Clemens or Grace Wales Bonner. As we know now, none of them were picked for the role.
martine rose is only one of thousands of talented designers who has been dragged along by the conglomerate luxury houses for months / years to then be dropped for a bigger name-
— brenda (@brendahashtag) February 15, 2023
OR MAYBE NOT…?
According to TikTok ‘therapists’ – no official licences can be presented here but it is good advice nonetheless – things falling apart is just another way of saying things are falling into place. Established notions and existing frameworks must be broken down to create space for new possibilities and narratives. While waving goodbye to fashion’s top dogs may be upsetting, we must understand that they are still here.
While Scott, Michele and Roach may be out of work for now, it’s only temporary. In a recent Tweet, Roach stated “So y’all really think I’m breaking up with Z….. we are forever!”, giving us hope that this relationship we’ve been obsessed with is not quite over yet. In his announcement, Scott already hinted at future work by saying “As I close this chapter I am filled with excitement & anticipation and can’t wait to share with you all what I have in store for you next !” Many have turned to an interview by Karl Lagerfeld in which he stated Jeremy Scott as the only option to take over his role at Chanel. Whatever Scott has up his sleeve, it’s not nothing, that’s for sure.
So y’all really think I’m breaking up with Z….. we are forever!
— LAW ROACH (@LUXURYLAW) March 15, 2023
As for Michele, the possibilities are endless. While there may not be a clear path, we’re certain this is not the end of the road in the designer’s career, but instead just a change of roads in the journey. As we all love to do, many have been speculating which house Michele could end up at, with strong contenders being Givenchy or Chanel. The most interesting speculation though, is Moschino. Now that the brand has an open position, Michele’s grand imagination that couldn’t be contained at Gucci might be a perfect fit for Moschino, leading the brand towards a more sophisticated maximalist aesthetic. While this is all speculation, it will be interesting to see which brand snatches up the Italian designer first.
As far as the future of emerging designers, it may seem bleak right after none of them were picked for Louis Vuitton and the recent rumours of GmbH designers Serhat Işik and Benjamin A. Huseby are leaving Trussardi only two years after joining, though that doesn’t mean it’s the end all be all for them. Continuing on with their own brands, up and coming designers are doing just that: coming up. And if Ludovic de Saint Sernin managed to secure his place at Ann Demeulemeester and Maximilian Davis is excelling at Ferragamo, that means there’s still hope, right?
We need to remember this is how the industry works: out with the old and in with the new. Fashion is constantly looking to shake things up, give their house a refresh, sometimes at the cost of our favourite figures moving onto different avenues. We wouldn’t have had Michele at Gucci if Tom Ford never left just as we never would have had the Raf Simons Dior era if the brand never parted ways with John Galliano. While it’s always bittersweet accepting the end of an era, we can find comfort in knowing that a new era is about to begin. And if that’s a flop, there will always be the archives for us to relish in.
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See: HYUNDAI’S SUSTAINABLE RE:STYLE PROJECT ENLISTS JEREMY SCOTT
What happens when you unite the themes of technology, innovation, sustainability, and style? Hyundai’s Re:Style project is born. In the brand’s yearly upcycling series, which has been inviting guest designers to produce environmentally friendly apparel collections since 2019, Hyundai is gearing up for another instalment, this time in collaboration with none other than Jeremy Scott.
Launched back in 2019, Re:Style is a sustainable clothing solution from the Hyundai Motor Company (HMC), collaborating annually with internationally acclaimed designers for its past three instalments. From working with Maria Cornejo on a collection made entirely from waste car seat fabric in 2019 to enlisting Seoul-based designer, Leclaireur, of Boontheshop in 2021, the Re:Style project has handed the wheel to a diverse array of designers since its conception. This year Hyundai is welcoming Jeremy Scott, of Moschino fame, to have his turn in the driver’s seat.
Working as creative Director at Moschino up until very recently, Jeremy Scott is revered for his playful take on fashion, a designer unafraid of challenging the status quo and recognised for his exciting, innovative, and irreverent takes on fashion. For this year’s Re:Style project, Scott has been challenged to utilise the unconventional materials which are leftover and recycled from Hyundai’s manufacturing of Electrify vehicles, such as their IONIQ 6, for his 10 look collection.
Using everything from hubcaps and keys to Hyundais’s specialised fabrics, like Bio TPO Skin, Jeremy Scott has curated an elegant couture collection in his signature style, made entirely from upcycled and recycled car materials. Featuring floor-length gowns decorated with buckle-style details which are actually made out of Hyundai’s logo emblems, a moto-inspired cape-style dress in sleek black with electric red detailing, and a reflective silver dress in broken pieces of metal, the collection is a culmination of Jeremy Scott’s expert upcycling and iconic aesthetic.
Re:Style is a project which Hyundai continues to value and prioritise even in its fourth instalment not only due to the exciting innovations it challenges designers to create, but also because of its place in the brand’s ever-growing commitment to eco-friendly manufacturing. The project is not only designed to inspire and engage with environmentally conscious consumers, but also sets out to play a part in Hyundai’s own vision for the “progress of humanity”.
The Re:Style project’s first offline Archive Exhibition is taking place during Seoul Fashion Week, hosted in Seongsu-dong, as a celebration of the brand’s dedication to sustainability and innovation, and will exhibit the Re:Style 2023 – Hyundai x Jeremy Scott collection, opening Wednesday 22nd March. Kicking off with a VIP party, the collaboration will then be open in Seoul to be viewed by attendees of the Archive Exhibition. It’s not often we get to see a world-renowned designer create a couture collection out of car parts, but the Hyundai X Jeremy Scott collaboration has to be one of the best.
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