Image Credit: Schiaparelli
The Schiaparelli SS21 couture collection is a radiating display of volume and colour. In the 20 months since his arrival, Daniel Roseberry has revolutionised Schiaparelli, turning it from a classic and delicate couture house to one that celebrates bold fantasies and excess.
The brand had recently garnered worldwide attention following public outings by Kim Kardashian and Lady Gaga. Kim, who initially teased part of the collection on her Instagram; a Hulk-green breastplate with drawn-on abs, acts as the perfect influencer to reach the masses.
Eagle-eyed fans will notice that while Roseberry has played with more modern and fluid designs, he drew a lot of inspiration from Schiaparelli historical items. Gold-tipped gloves from the 1930s have been reimagined as golden fingernail rings, while a similar approach has been taken to gold-tipped black heels and boots. Shirting with exaggerated sleeves from the 1950s and 1960s has also been reimagined as colourful oversized ruffled blouses, and statement sleeves were paired with gowns.
In a statement, Roseberry discusses the founder of the brand; Elsa Schiaparelli, saying “Her ambition was to experiment, to be disobedient, in all things: fabrication, shape, colour, iconography,”. Roseberry respects and clearly admired Elsa Schiaparelli’s initial designs, especially her usage of synthetic fabrics. However, his decision to go even bolder than before through the use of couture is a sign of the brand’s desire to evolve.
Roseberry took statement jewellery to new heights, with earrings that were the size of hockey goalie helmets, fingernail rings and tooth pearl earrings. One accessory that stood out was a pair of earrings/headpiece which held up a deep-hot pink dress draped over one of the models.
Schiaparelli also showed off a Madonna-and-child breastplate which although blasphemous, is certain to be a big hit. If that wasn’t ostentatious enough, the couture collection showed off a stretch fabric dress fitted with over 200,000 Swarovski crystals.
In a statement, while speaking about the collection, Roseberry jokes that “if you want to look like a cupcake you can go somewhere else,”. While baked goods may not be the first thing you think of when you see the collection, it certainly has a frosted flair to it all.
The collection has brought an air of amusement to couture clothing, a side of the fashion world that is often targeted for the more stuffy and arguably, wealthy. Among the fingernail rings and the exaggerated breastplates, the collection clearly focused on the elements of the human body. It used the historic craftsmanship of the brand to his fullest advantage, removing any connotations of square or dull and instead showed off a collection that is guaranteed to grab everyone’s attention.
Watch the collection in full below