Image Credit: SAINT LAURENT

The show, which took place in the middle of an unknown desert felt like a breath of fresh air for 2020, as models walked an extensive catwalk along the top of a colossal sand dune. Anthony Vaccarello’s own love of the desert, as well as a 1969 Yves Saint Laurent shoot in Morocco, influenced the choice of location. 

The collection felt more unrestricted compared to Vaccarello’s previous work. Instead of the tight latex looks, we saw last year, this time the models wore black and floral printed dresses in a flowing chiffon material. Against the wind of the desert, the dresses displayed the craftsmanship and quality of the fabrics. Speaking to Business of Fashion’s Tim Blanks, Vaccarello said that “After the huge success of the colours and the latex for last winter, I didn’t want to be stuck on that thing. I wanted to go back to the roots of the house, the lines, the purity, the short, very simple dresses with a zip up the middle.”

Models sported belted jackets with matching colour bike shorts as well as lace hot pants worn with long coats. As usual, the collection featured mostly monochromatic looks but didn’t erase the body’s silhouette, adding to the sex appeal that many of us have missed in 2020. 

A range of oversized belts, bright gold jewellery and gold breastplates drew inspiration from Yves Saint Laurent’s 1968 couture collection. To further represent the rich history of the brand, Vaccarello went as far as using vintage Claude Lalanne pieces for his show, the same ones used in the 1969 shoot. 

The models were reminiscent of 1970’s Bond characters, mysterious-looking in a foreign setting, wearing bright leather belts and silk shirting. The golden hour light of the desert helped to perfectly capture Vaccarello’s intentions. 

As day turned to night, flowing feather-trimmed tops and dresses were presented along with tailored double-breasted blazers. The models were illuminated by a bright flame to showcase Vaccarello’s evening wear creations. As the final model walks, a simple message from Anthony Vaccarello flashed up, ‘I WISH YOU WERE HERE’. Hopefully, we will all be there soon. 

Watch the full video of the show on SAINT LAURENT’s website. 

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