It’s all in the details at sacai FW24: key pieces from the collection

It’s all in the details at sacai FW24: key pieces from the collection

by CULTED
4 min

Walking into the sacai Fall/Winter 2024 showspace, we were greeted by a labyrinth of tubular green lights, slowly fading in and out of its brightness levels, as if an invitation to keep up with our regular deep breathing exercises, even during Fashion Week.

Perhaps it was also an exercise to ground ourselves, a meditative preparation to digest yet another mega-mashup of deconstruction and reconstruction presented by Creative Director Chitose Abe. With so much attention to detail, this show is worth watching over and over again, but if you don’t have the time, we’ve selected five key pieces for you to direct your attention to.

Drop it low shoulders
sacai ©

Shoulders have always been a serious area of experimentation for designers – padding them out, lifting them upwards, extending them out – but for Abe this season, it was all about the drop shoulder. No, not just any old drop shoulder, but a literal suit-jacket sleeve ripped off its original garment sewn one-third of the way down on another top’s arm, as seen on a hybrid knit-mesh top, with large white blazer sleeve adornments.

Lace-lined knitting
sacai ©

Everyone loves to look at clothing from the outside, but the inside matters too, and Abe knows this. Any designer will spend meticulous amounts of time lining their clothing for it not to be paid attention to, but Abe decided to incorporate lace-trim lining, making its appearance through the slits of a cream-coloured knit jumper-dress.

Business in the front, puffer in the back
sacai ©

sacai is a master at merging two (or more) pieces into one and this season was yet another example of the countless possibilities of Chitose’s creative mind. We saw quilted down jackets, or at least parts of them, scattered throughout but our favourite pick has to be this oversize blazer-to-puffy jacket moment, giving in-office meetings but the building has no heating thanks to President Macron’s reform in light of the energy crisis.

A smart thigh for footwear
sacai ©

We couldn’t talk about the sacai FW24 show without giving a shoutout to the footwear. Sexy-turned-smart, or smart-turned-sezy, the majority of the looks were accompanied by some thigh-high boots, which were actually enveloped by a smart-trouser-like fabric, creating a juxtaposition of two worlds.

Two tops in one and more
sacai ©

The second-to-final look embodied the sacai spirit wholeheartedly. Merging fabric together from the collar down to the seamline, Abe created a mix-match white button up that zips into a black overcoat for a confusing yet intriguing look. We also see the addition of excess jacket-like sid cascading ruffles, adding an extra-little-something to otherwise timeless piece.

More on Culted

See: COMME des GARÇONS had a meltdown for FW24

See: Stella McCartney urges you to save the planet for FW24

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