Origami is an art culture that has been around for over thousands of years. Through folding and sculpting any type of materials, the aim is to create a three-dimensional design, probably something you were familiar with as a child making those ‘this or that’ games out of paper. New streetwear brand LOT NUMBER has taken that concept and dived straight into combining the ancient art culture into modern-day streetwear with their innovative ‘Origami trousers’.
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Origami in fashion isn’t quite the same as cutting and folding pieces of paper and creating a disposable game; it really isn’t as simple as that. The fashion design technique is inspired by quilting and pleating; the method can create new futuristic designs and geometric silhouettes. Today CAD software can help make the perfect Origami design to maintain aesthetic and functionality, but this creative method is unique to the streetwear scene.
The LOT NUMBER collection is made up of not one style, but five silhouettes of the Origami pants, from; chino fit, wide-leg denim too slim fit to cargo joggers – Lot Number will have your favourite style covered. Each fit has a slightly different Origami design, again some more geometric and eccentric, others more loose fit and subtle. The Oragami piping, either in a contrasting colourway of neon orange, purple and blue, or remains in the same colourway of the garment, adding subtlety of the geometric piping.
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From the LOT NUMBER Instagram, it looks like this new brand only launched in March 2021, and in less than a year, it has been featured on celebrities and fashion bloggers from Jun Young , Koffi and Marvin Mario to name a few. We had to find out more about them, so we asked founders Joe and Juon Lee a few questions on what inspired their Lot Number creations.
First of all, can you tell us a bit about LOT NUMBER and how the brand was founded?
LOT NUMBER | 로트넘버 started when a designer and a merchandiser in the fashion industry met each other, with the simple purpose of creating a brand that we want to wear and think looks good. Rather than the concept or design requested by a company, we wanted to create design work that thoroughly reflected only our taste and intentions.
Origami is clearly an influence on your design. When did you start to become inspired by this art culture?
In our oriental region, origami is an activity done with paper that children encounter naturally in childhood. The beginning of this design was simple. “Let’s use wires to add volume to clothes.” By inserting firm but flexible wires into drapery fabric, we wanted a shape that can’t be expressed by fabric alone and at the same time, a design that was still wearable. Starting with a prototype, we folded the wire lines like origami which we are familiar with, we added sharp edges and shadows that are hard to express with fabric alone and a more impactful design was created.
Does anyone or any other cultures influence your design work?
Basically, the source of our inspiration is the taste we developed in our childhood. The street culture of that time, the old hip-hop music we enjoyed, contemporary artists, scenes from our childhood memories, people on the streets we met while travelling, and the colours and atmosphere of our city. Based on the taste that was developed through various experiences, new colours are found by referencing modern culture and a new muse.
Can you give us an insight into your design and production process?
First, we make a basic pattern based on the silhouette we think looks good. Everything starts with basic patterns and sharp tailoring. After that, we turn over the design and carry out modification work multiple times to change the form into something more attractive. At this time, the modifications are made in consideration of the feasibility of productivity in the future instead of sinking into the design itself. The two points of artistic perfection and production efficiency are weighed together simultaneously. We try to make the work not tilt over to one side too much.
You describe your brand as “ Defined by its unique yet calculated design language, LOT NUMBER exudes dissidence”. Can you tell us more about this, what are you trying to achieve with your design language?
As I mentioned briefly above, we are basically a team of designers and merchandisers with practical experience. I wanted to explain the purpose of creating a garment with a new silhouette that hasn’t been seen before while using precisely calculated patterns in the construction of clothes. LOT NUMBER refrains from course design that is unnatural and not faithful to the basics.
Are there are any streetwear brands that influence your work at the moment?
Rick Owen. He inspires us a lot… I respect and support his brand identity, his philosophy as a designer and all his work. I also look up the impressive works of Dingyun Zhang.
As well as ACRONYM as it’s a brand that showcases functionality and fashion at the same time.
Who would you love to see wearing LOT NUMBER?
ASAP Rocky, Bloody Osiris
Collaboration is king at the moment, is there any person/brand you would like to partner with on a collection?
Champion, Stussy
Looking to the future, what can we expect from LOT NUMBER for 2022?
Our first theme was “Tranquil Wave”, and we chose it in the hope of starting a wave in this fashion industry in a quiet but clear form. In 2022, LOT NUMBER will be making a strong impact with a clear form through our new products and new lookbook.
Finally, Where do you see your brand in 5 years time?
I want it to become one of the many brands that represent street culture and open various showrooms in the cities I love.
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