With Gucci wrapping things up with a presentation today, proceedings in Milan have largely come to a close. The week (or should we say weekend) saw brands such as Versace and Moschino end their men’s collections’ hiatus, alongside some seriously strong offerings from JW Anderson and many more. We’ve rounded up a few of the not-to-be-missed, to get you caught up before Paris kicks off tomorrow.
1017 ALYX 9SM
With the sweltering heat in Milan, Matthew M. Williams provided a much-needed day at the pool. The only issue? No water. 1017 Alyx 9sm presented its SS23 collection in a derelict outdoor swimming complex on the outskirts of Milan. Encompassing everything from denim workwear looks to exploded neon feather constructions, perhaps the most striking takeaway from the collection was the way garments were cut.
Decisively edgy, and infused with Alyx’s signature futuristic street aesthetic, garments hung off the models at right angles, swept across torsos diagonally, or fell in a structural manner that was recognisably elevated. Elsewhere, if the models were canvases for this new collection, Williams utilised the beauty of negative space in his art: sweaters were tied around necks, and tops treated to asymmetric cuts and folds. Central knots and elongated scrappy footwear took minidresses into the current era, whilst sleeveless jackets and tops were either layered or worn minimally; paired back.
With the collection’s strong accessories offering providing the glue to an already comprehensive and cohesive collection, 1017 Alyx 9sm’s SS23 was a masterclass in subverting and accentuating proportions, cleverly drawing the eye to considered zones of the body, and wearable, high-functional pieces.
Exploring tensions between natural and virtual, utopia and dystopia, MGSM presented a hopeful narrative in Milan’s up and coming industrial district. Models were immaculately styled, but still possessed a laid-back vibe – shirts were akin to elevated Hawaiian shirts, with floral, fruity and sea-based prints reigning supreme.
As has been the case in quite a few presentations this season and the last, underwear bands were visible above drawstring waistbands, and materials were perfect for the Milan heat: cottons, linens and light denim. Tailored options were also on offer, blending seamlessly into the collection’s vibe.
Fendi was out in full force for SS23. Favoured house design codes such as oversized tailoring was infused with newfound elegance, updating classic menswear staples. Boxy shirts and polos were paired with intentionally baggy trousers or shorts, subverting the ‘usual’ silhouettes and adding a new level of Fendi flair to proceedings.
Perhaps the biggest takeaway from this show were the accessories, though – from bucket bags to sports bags, Fendi proved that it has a firm grasp of what sells, but the ability to innovate new styles and iterations of historic house designs felt even more sweet this season. To close? A denim baguette bag, of course.
MARCELO BURLON COUNTY OF MILAN
Marcelo Burlon gave us a bit of everything this season. Music spanned techno to folk, and materials silk to denim. Kimono-elements appeared on the runway alongside military wear, and models flanked Marcelo himself, who walked the anniversary show.
In all, it was a collection for the night owls – made to be worn out partying. Burlon’s own early career as a DJ fed into the looks through their references to club culture – but perhaps more so as an ongoing reference for its ability to bring people together, from all walks of life.
This time around, Jeff Goldblum graced the FROW, rather than the catwalk. Prada teased its show theme with its invite – a jacket made of ‘stone dust’ paper. The set took this and ran with it – consisting entirely of paper. Guests filing in could’ve almost been an ASMR video.
Prada’s usual immaculate tailoring was on display, but underpinning the collection were leather mini shorts, complete with two gunmetal zips for detail. All-black looks gave way to colourful gingham, in much the same way that bright turtleneck jumpers faded back into a classic tux. If the collection was about ‘choice’, as Miuccia suggested post-show, it definitely delivered on this front.
Magliano pulled the fashion week crowd out of the city centre – all the way to a dilapidated landfill site on the outskirts of the city. There was a lot of layering, and a lot of earthy tones in this collection – echoing its sustainable core. Material was repurposed, upcycled and made into entirely new pieces.
JordanLuca’s show notes highlighted ‘annihilation, madness and grizzly, premature death’ as main sources of inspiration for its newest collection. Cheery. In practice, this played out as dark colours, darker themes, and a preoccupation with rips, cracking and deconstructed textures.
Mixing and matching references, materials and proportions, we saw mini shorts under hugely oversized blazers, or thigh high leather lace up boots worn on top of a JL tracksuit. It was a cohesive and boundary-pushing collection, and a solid offering from the brand in Milan.
Dhruv Kapoor transported us to a parallel universe through its SS23 collection, dubbed The Seeker, which was littered with loosely draped shirts and psychedelic florals. Alluding to the soul and themes of mental wellbeing, these were reflected in a comprehensive colour-palette, unconventional silhouettes, and multi-layered surfaces, with stark contrasts symbolising a raw blend of emotions.
Pulling on inspiration from ancient symbols and scriptures alongside modern-day anime and Y2K aesthetics demonstrated the brand’s dedication to blending notions of the past and future. However, this collection is undoubtedly a nod to what Dhruv Kapoor hopes is on the horizon; bold prints and fantastical silhouettes surely forecast good vibes.
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