We’re ¾ of the way through fashion month, people – hang in there. As one of the most closely associated cities with fashion in the world, Milan Fashion Week offers a dive into the heritage houses after the emerging dynamism of London. This season, we saw the usual Italian suspects return with collections that delivered on spectacle, like Prada’s paper-black set and Versace’s star-studded models, which we were slivinggg for.
However, maybe more interesting were the stunts pulled by the smaller brands which had a larger impact: everything from engineered runway falls to (a different) twin experience that went viral for their ingenuity. Keep reading to take a look at what went down, and everything you need to know.
THESE BOOTS WERE MADE FOR FALLING
AVAVAV by Beate Karlsson officially entered the viral fashion moment chat this season. Known for their huge green toe boots and chicken feet boots, previously donned by Doja Cat, the brand is well-loved for its wacky creations and playful take on high fashion, which continued through to SS23.
For the collection itself, we saw cast-like boots made from soundproofing material, monster yeti boots and oversized eyewear to die for. On the catwalk, models all fell dramatically – and the resulting images went viral in what many have hailed as ‘genius’.
TOKYO JAMES BROUGHT THE HEAT
Showing at the ADI design museum, crowds packed into an exhibition space eagerly awaiting Tokyo James’ SS23. We saw metal hardware and leather mixed with knits and cut outs, in a cohesive collection buoyed by the fast-paced energy of the models. There were some familiar faces in the line up too, from CULTED fav Omolola to online sensation Rickey Thompson.
MAXIMILIAN BROUGHT MOVEMENT TO FERRAGAMO, IN MORE WAYS THAN ONE
This season in Milan was also all about the new debuts: the most anticipated and successful of which arguably being Maximilan Davis’ for Ferragamo. Appointed creative director of the brand earlier this year, the Fashion East alumni staged a huge red show for his debut.
From elegant mesh draping and long trains blowing in the wind to a top selection of new accessory offerings, this was one of the week’s highlights. Maximilian’s own design aesthetic was present and gladly received, but its genius lay in elevating this on to a global, luxury platform. Bright things ahead, no doubt.
SUNNEI DID TWINS DIFFERENTLY
Sunnei are known for their innovative take on shows and presentations – having previously presented their new collections in motion, via runners. This time, it staged a seemingly ‘traditional’ catwalk show, until members of the audience began leaving their seats and heading to the runway.
From there, they walked through a revolving door to backstage, where their twin in an entirely new outfit would emerge a split second later. This stunt also went viral online, eclipsing the other twin-moment happening over at Gucci for many.
STUMBLING INTO THIS WAS A BETTER MISTAKE
A Better Mistake did everything, everywhere all at once: presenting a multidisciplinary SS23 show which encompassed fashion, art and music in Milano. Performers and models were dotted around the space in playful and subversive designs: everything from high-octane knit balaclavas to silver-dipped fingers. As ever, the brand traversed digital and physical, with attendees treated to on-screen installations too, whilst Berlin-based DJs undertook a ‘distorted and warped’ sonic performance.
SHOES, GLORIOUS SHOES
Aside from the shows, Milan comes alive with presentations in fashion week. One of which was Casadei’s – who put on a multi-level presentation in a luxurious Milan townhouse (koi pond included). The collection blended trend-specific design motifs with a shift into futurism – combining clear latex and gravity-bending heels with the brand’s signature it-girl aesthetic. Also on offer was a trip into the metaverse, via Decentraland. The best of both worlds.
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