Marc Jacobs brought dolls to life for Spring/Summer 2024 

Marc Jacobs brought dolls to life for Spring/Summer 2024 

by Ollie Cox
3 min

Big hair, big chairs, big yes! Marc Jacobs invited us into a world of doll-like fantasy last night for its Spring/Summer 2024 Ready-To-Wear collection, marking 40 years of the Marc Jacobs brand. 

In the wake of the show’s announcement, many were left speculating how the collection would look to the label’s legacy. After more than 40 years in the game, the legendary designer has graduated from a fresh-faced fashion student to the mastermind behind zeitgeist-dominating collections, captivating campaigns, and Gen-Z-gagging sub-labels like Heaven

Last week, the brand unveiled its 40th-anniversary campaign featuring Dakota Fanning, FKA  Twigs, Lila Moss, Lil Uzi Vert, Cindy Sherman, lensed by Juergen Teller, showcasing the wide-ranging friends of the brand that contribute to its infectious appeal. 

As guests entered The Park Avenue Armoury, they unknowingly entered into Marc Jacobs’ doll-like universe. Models found themselves dwarfed by a comically large set of tables and chairs, which set the tone for the collection. 

Hair was worn in volumised, ’60s-inspired, hairspray-heavy styles, complementing the rigid doll-like clothing we saw on the runway. Billowing shoulders replicated the plastic clothing seen on dolls, and coats were fixed in position, offering a playfully unnatural tension to the affair. Boxy, shiny leather shorts further channelled the toy-like display.

In later knitted looks, models walked with their shoulders pushed forward, filling out chunky knits in a deep red and playful purple which were accented with textured broaches to the right, adding to the escapist theme with a lifeless, non-human movement. 

Across numerous tailored looks, which were seen in navy plaid and beige, buttons were enlarged to hefty proportions. Its wearers carried humongous rounded leather handbags, which featured expansion zippers and metallic hoop detailing. Floor-length dresses in muted pink, yellow, brown and lilac featured metallic disc-like detailing, with a later black iteration grounding the colourful fun fest. 

Heaven by Marc Jacobs joined the party, too, making its runway debut in the form of pink, purple and grey velour-style cropped hoodies and ruched bottom sets, complete with the iconic dual-headed teddy bear logo emblazoned onto both pieces. When it came to footwear, bulb-toe stilettos featured alongside rounded flats and deconstructed platformed boots, which exposed “clip-on” style detailing to the front. 

Marc Jacobs’ Spring/Summer 2024 was a playful presentation of fashionable fun, solidifying the brand as one of New York’s best. Its latest collection exemplified all that the label has established in its 40-year history, where sartorial takes on pop culture are punctuated with Jacobs’ unwavering creativity. 

Cover Image Credit: @sofiacoppola

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