Jonathan Anderson at LOEWE has always had an eye for the kooky and the wacky. By wacky, we mean it as the highest compliment, a sign of his avant-garde design fused with a certain humour only Anderson can pull off.
We’ve seen these kinds of designs at his own brand, JW Anderson, such as for his most recent collection where he created sculptural pieces out of clay, or for the SS23 show, where he put broken skateboards on sweatshirts. This design method has transpired into the established House‘s more refined aesthetic, such as in the SS23 show where anthurium flowers doubled as tops.
Unlike a lot of out-there designs, Anderson’s never takes away from the collection at hand. In fact, it only helps enhance the story of the collection, blending in with the perfectly wearable pieces he offers. This season we saw yet another sophisticated play on design that didn’t take itself too seriously. Here are the wackiest pieces from LOEWE’s SS24 collection.
The oversized grandma knits
Kickstarting the show was a perfect display of Anderson’s playfulness. We saw loose-gauge knitted dresses without any sleeve holes and finished off with gold buttons. Here’s the kicker though, each dress was blown to almost comical proportions.
We saw two versions of this dress-top, one in an off-white version and the other in grey. They resembled the kinds of knitted blankets you can find around your grandma’s house, and with the seasons going colder, we can’t wait for this one to hit the stores.
Florals for spring? Only when LOEWE does it
LOEWE is no stranger to sculptural pieces that make you think “how is this even being held up?” The floral tops did exactly that. The garments were made up of two parts put together and featured crystal-encrusted five-petal flowers.
Just like that, LOEWE gives us an extraordinary take on something quite mundane (yes, we heard you Miranda Priestly). This is the kind of play we’ve become used to seeing from the brand, yet it always surprises us how much the designer is able to rethink, redesign and in some sense subvert simple pieces or design elements.
Sky-high waisted trousers
If you thought your dad’s ‘80s jeans were high waisted, wait until you see LOEWE’s high waisted trousers. The high treatment was given to several pairs, one in a smart, straight legged version, another in a brown panelled corduroy-type pant, as well as a classic pair of denim jeans.
The high-waisted trousers were paired with classic button shirts. It’s a relatively simple outfit on paper but by actually seeing the pieces shows the wack proportions that definitely makes this not a simple outfit. In fact, it’s quite a jaw-dropping fit that even Tube Girl would stop filming herself to glance at it on your morning commute.
Put a pin in it
LOEWE’s previous menswear season gave us a peek into ateliers’ activities, with looks that consisted of raw fabric with slightly frayed hems and a giant silver-metallic pin in it. The work-in-progress looks made a comeback for this womenswear season, and, to match most of the overarching details of this collection and to give a different offering, the pins were made out of a golden-tint.
The ‘unfinished’ finished look on the runway is something we’ve seen explored through the lens of many designers – from Martin Margiela’s unfinished hems in the ‘90s to Beate Karlsson‘s (intentional) hot mess of a show for AVAVAV’s SS24 offering. Here, Anderson presents his take on it through on an exaggeratedly squared top and on a pair of shorts that was actually being held up by the pin.
Collared for days
This one is a subtle wacky piece, but wacky nonetheless. It wasn’t one, not two, but three collars put into one look. The base layer was that of a simple white button up, but because it’s LOEWE, what seems simple at first glance is actually riddled with secret details only uncovered by the trained eye. The shirt didn’t boast a regular collar, but instead a paper-plane style of leaf edge, and the strand wasn’t folded down like you’d expect from any shirt.
Then there was the quarter-zip sweater, that actually looked like a half-zip considering it was paired with a pair of the high waisted trousers. The forefronted zipped was open enough to reveal the second zip underneath, giving us a double flipped up collar similar to those of the Regency era – without the regal aspect of it though.
Deck them out with these bracelets
Bracelets? Ankle-fitted knuckle dusters? We’re not sure but one thing we know is you definitely wouldn’t pass TSA wearing one of those. Seen in a variety of colours – shiny silver and matte black – the shape of these statement bracelets are almost indescribable, almost as if they were sculpted by the natural passing of air.
These accessories boast less of a humorous quality than the aforementioned pieces, but still hold up on this list of wacky items for their compelling shape. One word of advice: if you ever see someone wearing the LOEWE SS24 bracelets, don’t get on their bad side.
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