Charaf Tajer presented his Casablanca Autumn/Winter 2022 collection during Paris menswear fashion week, with a short film titled ‘Le Monde Diplomatique’, which translates to ‘The World of Diplomats’. Combining casualwear and eveningwear Tajer reflects how we live today, relating to gender, diversity and Parisian styling.
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Models walked the galley instead of the runway as Tajer transported us to the era of Concordes, an aircraft renowned for transporting the rich and famous directly from Paris to New York at record-breaking speed. The Concord became a symbol of glamour in the 1990s. A time where Tajer grew up, and he remains nostalgic “It’s the first collection that we do about Paris; specifically about Paris at the end of the nineties. The era of the Concorde and Lady Diana, and Dodi Al Fayed at the Ritz, and all the world of Jacques Chirac, the former French president who was so iconic,” the creative director explained over a zoom meeting. One of the ways he did so was the accessories chosen, collaborating with Globetrotter to add luxury retro luggage to the collection.
The Haute Monde (High World) is a theme often referenced in Tajer’s shows for Casablanca since 2018, the year he became creative director. The Haute Monde represents the lifestyle of the privileged and wealthy. Perhaps that is why Tajer chose to use an airport as his runway this year as leisure and travel go hand in hand with wealth and status. Interestingly he chose travel in our current climate, maybe Tajer has been influenced by restrictions placed around the world on travel due to covid, therefore romanticising freedom of movement for 2022 as restraints start to lift.
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The gender-fluid narrative showcasing menswear and womenswear in one presentation is an approach we now expect from the Casablanca brand, as gender lines have been blurred throughout their shows since 2020. Glamorous, powerful, and wealthy, the Casablanca women played a vital role in the Le Monde Diplomatique film, making a stance in sharp tailoring, oversized shoulder pads and bold retro tinted sunglasses, switching traditional gender ideals. Familiarly, British-French actress Emma Mackey was one of the prominent faces, and Casablanca doesn’t look bad on her, a lot more groomed than we usually see on the Netflix show ‘Sex Education’. The Casablanca man, however, had an affluent yet androgynous feel. The skin was bare through cropped cardigans, waists cinched with belts, and relaxed tailoring is just some of the ways Tajar played with ideas of masculine and feminine norms.
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A blend between haute couture and casual wear was exhibited throughout the short film. Again referring to the Haute Monde of luxurious travel and après sport concept wear combining cashmere terry tracksuits, curvy sneakers, printed silk shirts and feathered luxury eveningwear in one collection. The swan was presented throughout the collection, including a blue swan minidress, a winter cape and feathered looks symbolising the Concorde. “Beautiful but mean like Paris” Tajer jokes referring to the swan, but he makes a connection between the gracefulness of the swan and the iconic Concorde plane that has been grounded since 2003.
Combining comfort and chic, the Casablanca AW22 collection has many layers. Retro nostalgia, 90’s glamour and gender fluidity united through 70’s oversized tinted aviators, a-line silhouettes, flight attendant inspired accessories and colour palettes as well as exaggerated proportions next to athleisure two-pieces. Charaf Tajer designed a collection that reflects the modern-day and nostalgia over travel.
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