KILLER COLLECTIONS & PARISIAN PRELUDES: YOUR MONDAY BRIEFING

by Jade Fisher 10 months ago

by Jade Fisher 10 months ago 8 min

It’s that time again. As another Monday comes around, we’ve curated another jam packed roster of news to keep you afloat. This week, we spotted COS collabs, killer presentations and even a touch of seductive energy, thanks to Arturo Obegero. Designers dropped new collections aplenty and Paris brought us a fresh list of fashion week contenders to the mix.

Keep reading for our round up of everything you need to know for the coming week.

COS DROPS YEBOAH COLLAB

Teaming up with Notting Hill based designer Reece Yeboah, minimal utility wear frontrunners COS have dropped a limited capsule collection drawing on the boundaries of heritage whilst taking note of the challenging obstacles of Yeboah’s rise to the top. Featuring standout pieces such as YEBOAH emblazoned hoodie, a structured check overcoat and a playful sports jacket – all adorned with a striking, bright yellow shade – COS x YEBOAH hopes to initiate a wave of support for new talent through their innovative new platform, kicking off with a London show and a glittering after party this Thursday 26th January.

FLANEUR PRESENT ‘SOMEWHERE IN EUROPE’

Contemporary menswear label Flaneur have dropped their AW23 collection, featuring luxurious denims and leathers, technical pieces for everyone and fluid cuts – alongside innovative accessories and footwear offerings. Drawing from the elements of youth and dreams, the campaign is accompanied by a short film titled ‘La Flaneur Moderne’, which explores a wandering protagonist’s emotions and as they make their way around the city, absorbing all of the aesthetic elements around them.

SONGZIO KICKED OFF WITH A BLACK CANVAS

Songzio’s F/W entry for 2023 landed in Paris with an aim to ‘reflect’. The Seoul based label’s latest collection was written from the viewpoint of a ‘boy gladiator’, a delicate, gentle individual with a brave warrior heart and spirit. Featuring double layered outerwear in heavy denims and durable vegan leather, asymmetric silhouettes and futuristic colour-clashing via acid greens and distressed browns, Songzio FW23 championed antique exteriors with contemporary design methods.

A (LITERAL) KILLER AW23 FOR SANKUANZ

“A vicious Black Widow –both victim and executioner– clutches a sharp blade for self- defence and cold-blood murder. They are no stranger to violent tendencies.” These are the dark forewords that marked Sankuanz’s killer (no pun intended) garage-based show, including ominous all-black ensembles followed by bright, graffiti-sprayed pieces. Power suits met street style silhouettes in this dark, yet youthful collection.

INTENTIONAL STRUCTURING AT JOE CHIA

For Joe Chia FW23, ‘layering, tailoring and commitment’ were at the forefront of their ethos. #CHAPTER21, titled ‘Out of Nowhere’ strived to combine technical design elements with a contemporary, edgy twist using adjustable drawstrings, modern silhouettes and odes to functionality. Uses subdued, natural shades such as Sulphur, Moss and Dusk, layered pieces and textured knit pieces were at the crux of this elevated collection.

EYTYS KEPT PLAYING

Introducing EYTYS FW23: your sign to ‘keep playing, keep dancing.’ As their latest Parisian collection kicked off, we were treated to a glimpse into Creative Director Mac Schiller’s childhood in Dalarö, Sweden. Complimented by etchings by artist Anders Zorn featured alongside the booming beat of King Tubby’s Hometown Hifi, models scaled the runway in slashed denim, illusionary knitwear and never ending silhouettes.

ARTURO OBEGERO GAVE SEDUCTIVE ENERGY

Arturo Obegero doesn’t play when it comes to collection energy. The label’s latest collection for FW23, dubbed ‘Homme Fatale’ takes inspiration from the seductive, confident man who oozes confidence, ambition and style. Through morphing iconic styles such as their Christian Cardigan and Pedro Silk Shirt into luxurious, elevated updates and including a ‘Hollywood touch’ throughout, for FW23 Arturo Obegero challenged us all to use our fatale energy to empower ourselves.

WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK’S AVANT GARDE FW23

As a leading member of one of the famed ‘Antwerp Six’ Walter Van Beirendonck was never going to play it down at PFW. Championing the unexpected, his foray into FW23 (which was accompanied by a David Bowie soundtrack) peddled a range of political slogans such as “Save the Future,”“Peace,” and “No War,” PVC galore and even a vast, shiny red ensemble them resembled the connective limbs of a lego piece, WvB’s FW23 show was the place where playful casualwear met avant-garde tailoring.

SONG FOR THE MUTE ELEVATES SPORTSWEAR

With a successful debut adidas collab firmly under its belt, Australian label Song for the Mute charged the runway with an apocalyptic vibed collection. Distressed, frayed hems were spotted aplenty meanwhile oversized, layered outerwear finished with matrix-esque shades and balaclava style chunky scarves. Streetwear got a contemporary twist with tailored shirts and coats – and we even spotted a second adidas collab on the runway, in the form of boxy shirts, billowing tracksuit bottoms and even an anticipated second footwear instalment titled SFTM-002 Campus.

NO GREY AREA EXPLORED ANCESTRY

No Grey Area, the label at the forefront of modern South-Asian clothing representation, returned to the runway last week with their latest FW23 runway show. Rooted in heritage, the collection, titled ‘Neithal’, offered nods to cultural significance through Kurta and Dhoti silhouettes, traditional saree structuring and luxurious fabric design elements such as loomed-in-Kashmir pashminas.

44 LABEL GROUP SAY “BLAME SOCIETY”

Set against a desolate, wasteland style backdrop, 44 Label Group’s foray into FW23 said ‘Blame Society’. Channelling postmodern disenchantment energy, the formidable collection featured distressed knitted motifs, blown up silhouettes with hints to space-raider uniforms and futuristic design features in the form of eye-catching prints and utilitarian shapes. For FW23, the label blended playful aspects of club culture with the jarring issue of perpetual world consumption.

IDENTITY, MEMORY, FANTASY: N PALMER’S COLLECTION 3

N Palmer took time to reflect on personal history this season. Channelling transatlantic style for FW23, we spotted classic Americana styles in the form of bandana features and patchwork elements, alongside rural ruffles and charming silhouettes – an ode to his countryside upbringing in Indiana. Standout pieces were up cycled effortlessly from vintage fabrics such as bedlinen, as the designer nodded to a more sustainable, waste-reducing fashion future with his collection.

Head to n-palmer.com/shop to browse the full collection.