If fashion was a feeling, HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE SS25 would be zen

If fashion was a feeling, HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE SS25 would be zen

by Ollie Cox
2 min

Set in the Mobilier National courtyard in Paris HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE managed to bring an air of calm to the Paris Fashion Week schedule. Flower-like fans were elevated from the ground, swaying gently in the wind, a movement that would be reflected throughout the collection, titled “Up, Up, and Away,” with clothing designed with wind-swept movement in mind.  

Crafted to follow the movement of the wind, we saw lightweight textiles used to construct the usual ISSEY MIYAKE wizardry – the kind that has developed an army of quietly diehard fans hooked on its functional plays with design. 

Wrap-around headdresses, loose-fitting button-down coats, tote bags, lightweight jackets, and waistcoats all featured HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE’s signature pleated lightweight fabric in a range of muted and pastel hues. Spring/Summer 2025’s colour offering came to a crescendo as singular colours intersected with checks and plaid patterns in a reflection of windy spontaneity. Later looks saw sleeves finished with cut-outs to the sides across hooded jackets, mirroring the structure of a kite, which could be adjusted via a series of buttons. 

Beyond pleated fabrics, nylon trenches and rain macs arrived in neutral hues, where the washed fabric gave way to a relaxed silhouette. On top of this, ISSEY MIYAKE’s utilitarian-rooted design extended beyond the product to reimagine how we wear them, where parachute-esque straps held the coat above its wearer’s shoulders and concealed belts to make longer coats easy to carry. 

HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE’s SS25 collection continued the late Issey Miyake’s innovative spirit through designs which explored our relationship with clothing and the elements. It was crisp, clean, and utilitarian, all things we’ve come to know and love from the label. 

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