We kickstarted AW22 Fashion Month with Milan Menswear and we weren’t disappointed. Inspiration from the pandemic was one theme throughout; Jordan Luca used his “rage as a catalyst of creativity”, Magliano transported us to a romanticised upside-down world, and Dsquared2 took us on a camping trip. Read our stand out’s from the Milanese runway below:
JORDAN LUCA COMBINES SEX AND SEDUCTION FOR AW22
A refreshing hybrid of relaxed silhouettes and sartorial tailoring graced the runway for JORDANLUCA’s Milan Fashion Week debut. It is not often you see suit jackets with extended lapels followed by an oversized hoodie. Still, the London-based duo cleverly balanced anger and fragility for their Autumn/Winter 2022 collection.
Sex and seduction are two themes that come to mind when watching their trippy mohair vests, quilted trousers, luxurious lightweight fur coats and exaggerated gothic hem; just some of the desirable, intense design concepts that were on the agenda. One of the apparent elements throughout the collection was the magpie, symbolising good fortune, a creature that seeks beauty. A representation we, as humans, can relate to without even being aware. This recurring fresh perspective on human vitality and spirit is preserved throughout the show, and the Magpie is just one way in which it is defined.
JORDANLUCA created an experience at Milan Fashion Week this season, “Rage is a catalyst for creativity” they stated after their show, perhaps referring to the current world and frustrations the pandemic has brought, but the rage they expressed in the finest way possible. Of course, NFTs were also an added element to the show, partnering with Arlene.io to mark the label’s entry to the metaverse.
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DREAMS AND NIGHTMARES HAVE COLLIDED ON THE MAGLIANO RUNWAY
Juxtaposing against the norm, Magliano’s melancholic mood created a collection that encounters a romantic yet somewhat detached atmosphere of ‘everything happens upside down’.Staged at Milan’s Circolo Arci Belleza, a renowned space in Italy, especially famous for the boxing scene in Rocco and His Brothers directed by Luchino Visconti. Magliano represented this scene with the bed, ‘where at night dreams and nightmares collide’.
To capture this eccentric feel of surprise, Maagliano experimented with fluid proportions from layering outerwear to soft tailoring. Oversized, boxy fits were paired with slouchy fit sweaters and longline anoraks. The surprise, however, came from the unusual blend of fabrics which were paired together from felted wool to lurex and luxurious embroidered silks.
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WILLIAMS FADES OUT THE PANDEMIC WITH HIS 1017 ALYX 9SM COLLECTION
Matthew Williams returned to Fashion Week after two years with his debut collection ‘Fade’. “I wanted to frame it in a way that conveyed the idea that there’s this constant fade back forth between a world we once knew and the world that is now, between normality and this other surreal life that we’ve been living in” Williams referred to the pandemic as an inspiration for his AW22 collection in a preview before the show started. Ironically, the ‘return to normality’ isn’t quite there yet as he was about to present to a socially distanced audience in a 100-year-old Italian church.
Despite this, Williams’ contemporary collection patrolled down the runway, featuring both men and womenswear. Oversized knits, boxy cropped jackets, ergonomic rubber boots, vinyl trench coats and co-ords finished with Ostrich feathers and wrap tinted sunglasses. The luxurious, sleek matrix vibes were definitely not what the Forty Martyrs church usually endures over its doors, but the juxtaposition of the modern design and rustic features complemented each other perfectly. A mixed colour palette of coal-black was complemented by accent shades of dusty purple and deep red.
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WE ALL WANT TO GO CAMPING NOW WE WATCHED THE DSQUARED2 AW22 SHOW
Back to the runway with their first show since the pandemic, Dean and Dan Caten were feeling rather emotional about returning with their latest AW22 collection, likewise the audience. After 2 years of disturbance to everyday life, work and normality, we are all sharing the relief to be back reviewing debut collections, especially if you are lucky enough to grab a socially distanced ticket.
Vibrant colour schemes, focusing on the primary colours, were the initial focus, once analysed, the outdoor theme of the collection was apparent, surrounded by a row of camping tents. Perhaps inspired by the ‘staycation’ ‘exploring’ zeitgeist the pandemic brought. The utilitarian approach to Cargo pants, heavy-duty boots, vibrant scenic knits, layered with climbing harnesses and oversized quilted jackets and padded scarves. The Caten twins definitely delivered a unique collection compared to the previous shows, and it is just what Milan fashion week needed.
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MSGM COMBINE THE PAST AND FUTURE FOR AW22
Follow the psychedelic journey of MSGM for AW22. Merging the past and future for the Noise of the Time (Il Rumore Del Tempo) collection exploring youthful, vibrant energy inspired by Italian architect, urban planner and industrial designer Gaetano Pesce.
As per, the MSGM collection represents the brand’s heritage, however, for this season we see a combination of more contemporary styling. Bright primary colours are playfully paired with branded oversized boxy hoodies, quilted oversized cargos and shorts, accessories with bold coloured bags, gloves and interestingly sliders. The outdoor inspiration again could be taken from the new love for the outdoors we have found as a society.
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