Last night, Emporio Armani took us on a nautical exploration inspired by the Atlantic, a “cold and impetuous winter sea.”
As models made the journey across the catwalk, headwear was front and centre, with a range of sailor-style, paperboy, and captain hats donned on the runway. When it came to tailoring, the Italian luxury brand aced it with its padded shoulders mirrored the imposing structure of the lighthouse – channelling resilience that can stand up to the strongest forces of nature.
High collars were front and centre and featured across overcoats and tailoring. Leather was used to construct ankle-length coats, which were fastened at the waist with a rope-style belt, a strong look that could weather any storm that came its way.
The collection moved from on-deck utilitarianism to evening-time elegance, embellished evening wear. Later looks saw tailored pieces, which spanned both men’s and womenswear, finished with glistening coral-like detailing, contrasted with the muted colour palette, subtly capturing the light of the show space, much like the isolated lighthouse that informed the collection.
Speaking of the collection, the House stated “The collection has a bold spirit, defined by clear silhouettes […], ‘anchored’ to the ground.” The nautical theme was clear to see, but was represented in a way that offers an off-sea look, grounded on the Earth.
On foot, the imposing silhouettes were anchored by chunky lace-ups and gaiters, worn over the top of relaxed-fitting trousers, a shoe that elevated functional footwear for the occasion.
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