Burberry has just presented its Spring/Summer 2024 collection at London Fashion Week, and under the helm of Daniel Lee, it’s quite the sophomore runway offering. Taking London’s glitterati and countless famous faces — including Skepta, M Huncho, Kylie Minogue, Mabel, Bukayo Saka, Kano, Neneh Cherry, Jason Statham and others — to Highbury Fields in North London, the show started before it really even started. Outside the Nova-covered tent, Burberry’s recent admiration for food came to life thanks to Norman’s, serving Mary Berry-approved Eccles cakes, Guinness bread, and a much needed coffee.
As we entered the tent, Lee had transported us to a day’s camping. Green benches lined the make-shift room, as did a green carpet, while quilted blankets and metal flasks secured in their own Lee-approved Burberry blue (the shade of itd Equestrian Knight logo) were everywhere the eye could see.
As for the show, Lee pulled out all the stops to make sure his second runway collection for the British House hit all the marks.
It kicked off with a classic Burberry Trench coat, served for men and women in black. Focus was drawn to the heavy chrome buckle-equipped footwear, ranging from heels to loafers, before we saw an unravelling of trench-influenced looks.
Some were literally trench coats, cut in soft off white leather with a contrasting chequered lapel peaking through. Others, like a Harrington jacket, followed the lines of the inaugural Trench Coat display, keeping the lapels big and the waist tight.
As the show progressed, so did the spectacle around us. Protesters made a small and very much not mighty appearance: they were out as quick as they were in. Antics aside, looks grew into silk shirts decorated with florals, while dresses and two-piece elements also in silk got a metal hardware motif printed all over them.
Florals blossomed into a dress that was entirely covered in crochet, later transforming into a sheer printed number, while Burberry Blue British strawberries were found splattered all over a white silk co-ord.
The diverse collection had a number of highlights, which include but are not limited to: a halter neck vest top, a black leather biker jacket, and the final look.
Here, a topless man walked down the spiralling runway in now-signature blue trousers, secured to the waist with a thick leather belt crowned by Burberry’s Equestrian Knight emblem, cast in heavy metal.
And this was the perfect look to end on. It perfectly captured the spirit of the House, contemporised for today — it was a little bit traditional, a whole lot of sexy, and proved that sometimes you don’t need big prints and bold colours to rely on. You can always count on the Burberry Equestrian Knight.
Daniel Lee has successfully followed up on his debut runway collection in January. Never an easy task, Lee managed to draw hundreds in to see his evolution of the House, and in doing so, drew attention to the meticulous details he and his team have been busy crafting.
You can find Daniel Lee’s SS24 Burberry collection above.
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