As 2020 comes to a close, it’s important we take a minute to appreciate the work of emerging designers. This year taught many that it is important to support small and local businesses and up and coming designers are no exception. In one of the most economically volatile years, they were able to craft beautiful pieces of clothing and grow as artists. With great admiration, we’ve compiled a list of ten emerging designers who you should have on your radar for 2021.
Maximilian
Maximilian Davis is London’s rising designer who should be on everyone’s radar. Best known for celebrating Black culture and elegance, Maximilian uses his designs to explore and showcase his Trinidadian roots. For his SS21 collection, which was presented by the Fashion East collective, we saw oversized tailoring and silk skirts. This debut collection gracefully paid homage to the Trinidadian festival, a reclaimed event which celebrates the resistance and liberation of eurocentric traditions.
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Gareth Wrighton
Another Fashion East recruit, Gareth Wrighton launched his fashion line after roaming around all sorts of artistic routes. As a photographer and a computer modeller, Wrighton has forged himself an artistic outlook on life, which translates into his clothing. His aesthetic can be described as retro chaotic, as Wrighton himself has said to be inspired by chaos. His debut collection was based on the violent Altamont Free Concert that took place in California in 1969. Furthermore, Wrighton was featured as an emerging designer at GucciFest, offering the viewers a short film depicting the disturbing relationship between human and nature.
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Rombaut
The footwear brand Rombaut has made a name for itself by specializing in the production of vegan shoes. Founded in 2011 by Belgian designer Mats Rombaut, the brand solely uses ethical substitutes to create its ‘leather’ footwear. From sneakers to high heels and boots, Rombaut is best known for its chunky, bold and avant-garde designs. This year, FKA Twigs was seen wearing Rombaut’s ‘Dysmorphia’ thigh-high heels in the music video Sum Bout U by 645AR (ft. FKA Twigs). The brand has also had a pop-up during Paris Fashion Week and produced a collaborative line with IDEA, a culturally challenging publishing label, which was exclusively sold at Dover Street Market.
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Maharishi
Founded by Hardy Blechman in 1994, this London streetwear brand infuses Eastern traditional wear with Western modern aesthetics. Although best known for its military uniform inspired garments, Maharishi does not stand in favour of war. In fact, the brand’s ethos aligns with pacifism and anti-war movements. In their latest collection, ‘Souvenir Dragon,’ the brand pays tribute to the hidden hill tribes of Vietnam, an often overlooked group of people. Furthermore, Maharishi is an environmentally friendly brand, sourcing materials and workers in an ethical manner, advocating for a change within the perilous fashion industry.
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Angus Chiang
This young designer is changing the game of streetwear fashion with his use of bright PVC knit. In 2015, Angus Chiang created a self-monikered brand which integrates Tawainese street culture. His fun and genderless designs have appealed to the younger generation of millennials, as they provide the path to a new, inclusive and non-eurocentric take on fashion. However, the millennials are not the only ones Chiang has impressed. In fact, LVMH shortlisted Chiang for the Young Designer Prize, making him the first Tawainese to achieve this.
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Chet Lo
Chet Lo is an Asian-American designer who only just graduated from the prestigious Central Saint Martins this year. Although fresh out of school, the young designer has already interned for Maison Margiela and Proenza Schouler, making a name for himself in the industry. His unique knitwear designs stand out due to their bright and fun nature whilst maintaining a vintage feel and a sensual aura. Lo has had his designs seen on the internet sensation, Lil Miquela. He says this was a perfect collaboration as the digital model, just like him, has a futuristic feel while retaining her bubbly, cartoon-like self.
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A BETTER FEELING
The Cairo-born designer Xander Ghost started A BETTER FEELING in 2018. The eyewear brand specializes in rectangular sunglasses which can be described as minimalist and futuristic. The brand, now based in London, is heavily based on a mantra of connection. Ghost wants to create a synergy between product and wearer, creating a special bond. This, perhaps, is the reason why A BETTER FEELING’s sunglasses are all unisex. No label or norm should come between a garment and its owner.
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Paria Farzaneh
Paria Farzaneh is an Iranian designer who immigrated to England and now resides in London. Farzaneh is known for causing a stir in the world of menswear fashion. In fact, Farzaneh celebrates her culture by incorporating elements of traditional Iranian fabrics and workwear to her designs. Her collections display Iranian traditional prints incorporated in a casual tracksuit with embroidered detailing. This advocate for multiculturalism creates powerful and politically charged garments, aimed to highlight her country’s heritage. In 2017, Frank Ocean wore one of her t-shirts whilst headlining at London’s Lovebox Festival.
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Marvin Desroc
The Caribbean designer Marvin Desroc, who was raised in Paris, explores his rich heritage throughout his collections. Whilst being a menswear designer, Desroc does not conform to the idea of traditional masculinity. In fact, the young designer is known for incorporating ‘feminine’ aspects to his garments. Desroc describes himself as being a fan of the ridiculousness and the unapologetic persona. Indeed, in a few of his garments can be seen as an oversized, over-the-top bow, very representative of Desroc’s playful, almost ironic side. His designs also contain fishnet-like materials, ruffles, tank tops, and garters, offering a wide variety of choice to his customers.
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Chopova Lowena
Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena have teamed up together to create the designer duo of Chopova Lowena. They are best known for transforming deadstock textiles into intricately handcrafted skirts and dresses. The duo were praised when they involved a 300-year old hand painting technique on denim. Chpova Lowena has also gained traction by using traditional Bulgarian drawings to add to their designs. Although they have only launched three collections, their outstanding designs have already hoarded the racks of multi-brand boutique Browns in London and in womenswear store H. Lorenzo in L.A.
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