Image Credit: 017 ALYX 9SM
Instead of a typical runway presentation in a season that has been anything but typical, 017 ALYX 9SM released a series of pictures showcasing its co-ed FW21 collection. Titled ‘Unreal’, the name for the collection comes from creative director Matthew Williams’ attitude to 2020, stating to ID that the year “just didn’t feel real.”
The collection goes back to the label’s signature elements, including its tailoring and hardware at a time when Matthew Williams has redefined his work through his various roles and collaborations.
The clothing presented was more colourful than we have previously seen. Both menswear and womenswear saw cropped and oversized outerwear pieces in blue and bright red hues, while the brand offered backless dresses in pink and pastel blue. The brand continued its long-term partnership with Italian tailoring brand Caruso to produce a series of exceptional formalwear pieces, as well as offering more creative casual wear including oversized fleeces in what looks like faux Astrakhan fur.
017 ALYX 9SM’s signature buckle made its way onto a number of accessories for this collection. The metallic buckle was seen on backpack straps, handbag clasps and of course, on belts. A key accessory seen was a belt featuring miniature buckles attached throughout the strap. The collection also introduced the new ‘Ludo Flag’ bag; a formal leather handbag featuring the buckle as a clasp.
This offering speaks to Williams’ approach to comfort and softness. Tailoring is layered with puffy outerwear pieces, worn with loose-fitting pleated trousers and boots and mules that have been given EVA foam soles. It speaks to his ability to flawlessly combine the appeal of sportswear without sacrificing the aesthetic seen in a smarter wardrobe.
‘Unreal’ was a collection that allowed the brand to offer a reflection of its own identity. In a statement, Williams said that this collection was about “stripping-back to where we began, and defining those codes again, and making them more consistent and solid.”
Matthew Williams is a born multitasker. This collection, created following his second season at Givenchy, as well as his recent work at Nike and Moncler, proves he has no intention of slowing down. While this FW21 collection may appear simple, it in fact boldly pronounces the way the creative director imagines us to be dressing following the stay-at-home era.
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